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Thread: Regrounded My MAF Virtual Dyno Numbers

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Posts: 11-20 of 25
2011-12-21 04:56:57
#11
Originally Posted by ashtonsser
Damn you shifting early Vadim, lol. 7700 and still climbing. lol. Take her to 9k at least one pull. Dont be scared, n1's love that high rpm.


, my redline is at 8,000 rpm, but it looks like it activates at 7800 rpm. Which is odd, ECU see's 7800 but tach see's 8k rpm. I don't want to push it on stock valvetrain.
2011-12-21 05:01:56
#12
Read this and feel safer about going to 9k on stock valvetrain.

http://www.sr20-forum.com/vvl/29255-please-post-up-if-you-have-sr20ve-motor-n1-cams-stock-springs-retainers.html

My buddy's stock valvetrain ve motor ran n1's to 9k all the time, 50k miles put on that motor, and it saw 11-12k+ several times during nasty full throttle 2nd gear mis shifts and never floated a valve into the piston. Currently now my motor and internals all looked perfect. No need to worry man.
2011-12-21 05:17:30
#13
Originally Posted by ashtonsser
Read this and feel safer about going to 9k on stock valvetrain.

http://www.sr20-forum.com/vvl/29255-please-post-up-if-you-have-sr20ve-motor-n1-cams-stock-springs-retainers.html

My buddy's stock valvetrain ve motor ran n1's to 9k all the time, 50k miles put on that motor, and it saw 11-12k+ several times during nasty full throttle 2nd gear mis shifts and never floated a valve into the piston. Currently now my motor and internals all looked perfect. No need to worry man.


Well before I had a properly functioning maf, I made no power above 7300 thus I saw no point in reving to even 8k. Now that I made power at 7700, I will rev to 8k.

Thing is, just because the motor can handle 8k+ rpm, doesn't mean my Alternator, Water Pump, Power Steering, etc. etc. can handle those kinds of speeds.

Another thing is, my tach only reads to 8k rpm. If I rev above that, I will need to depend on the rev limiter. Rev limiter kicking on that high is dangerous too.
2011-12-21 05:22:34
#14
yeah you have a point. Just thought i would throw it out there. From the graph it looks like it still is climbing. Alot of old graphs i was looking at with your similar setup would peak at about 8100-8200 with cams at 0,0.

Maybe a run to 8500 at least to get a general idea of the full powerband. But hey its up to you.

Looks like fun either way. Any noticable difference as far as how the car feels and accelerates? You will definitely feel a SOTP difference in 30whp.
2011-12-21 05:24:06
#15
Can you explain in detail what you did Vadim? I never really understood the process behind regrounding the MAF.

-G
2011-12-21 05:32:46
#16
Originally Posted by gomba
Can you explain in detail what you did Vadim? I never really understood the process behind regrounding the MAF.

-G


Take the MAF wire coming from the MAF plug that is the ground and re-direct it to the intake manifold where the ECU terminals are grounded.

Better ground = happier electricity
2011-12-21 05:33:48
#17
Originally Posted by ashtonsser
yeah you have a point. Just thought i would throw it out there. From the graph it looks like it still is climbing. Alot of old graphs i was looking at with your similar setup would peak at about 8100-8200 with cams at 0,0.

Maybe a run to 8500 at least to get a general idea of the full powerband. But hey its up to you.

Looks like fun either way. Any noticable difference as far as how the car feels and accelerates? You will definitely feel a SOTP difference in 30whp.


I was really loosing hope in N1 cams, I lost power after installing them. Now it looks like it's all coming back. I updated the AFR's to be leaner (aiming for 13:1), and will do another drive tomorrow. Also I'll try to get a 0-70mph test done too.

Originally Posted by gomba
Can you explain in detail what you did Vadim? I never really understood the process behind regrounding the MAF.

-G


Very simple, where you connected your new MAF's plug, just crimp a 16 gauge wire to the the ground wire on the MAF plug, then install that ground on the intake manifold. Now some say you should disconnect the old ground, I personally like to just add on to the existing ground, intake my intake manifold wire breaks.

Why intake manifold? You want your engine electronic grounds to be grounded on the same spot, aka Intake manifold. Keep other electronics off the ECU grounds.

Here is the basic concept: http://www.sr20-forum.com/general-maintenance/572-how-reground-your-maf-mass-air-flow-sensor.html
2011-12-21 05:37:28
#18
When regrounding all you do is cut the ground wire from the maf and run your own ground to a known good ground location such as the intake manifold or chassis near a good ground connection to the battery.

The thing with the stock harness and stock maf ground is that especially when the harness gets older the wires especially on the ground side can become corroded or birttle to the point they can break and so on. The factory maf ground runs back through the engine harness back into the cabin near the ecu where it splices in with the other ecu grounds and grounds from every other component on the engine. There are literally at least on a b13 harness about 10-12 different spliced in areas for grounds all to connect and then they go back into the engine bay and ground to the intake manifold.

Again usually happens on cars that are in rust prone areas where corrosion can happen or when the ground cable from the battery to the engine and to the chassis become corroded you will start to notice things. Good solid grounds are very important and cant be stressed enough.
2011-12-21 06:24:07
#19
now ground it to the battery and see what happens
2011-12-21 16:07:42
#20
Good stuff Vadim.

If it ever stops raining here I am going to do a virtual dyno with my car before bolting it onto the dynapack, just for comparison's sake.
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