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Thread: Help please: car won't start after installing wideband. **UPDATED! :)

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Posts: 11-20 of 27
2011-11-12 05:38:32
#11
Hell you could of fried the ecu splicing into it like that for the wideband...that would suck. Hopefully not.
2011-11-12 05:46:12
#12
Originally Posted by danfiveten
Hell you could of fried the ecu splicing into it like that for the wideband...that would suck. Hopefully not.


Shitty thing is I'm pretty darn good at wiring as I made my own step-down and use to do car stereo installs on the side years ago. I guess I was just too tired and frozen last night and missed the open connection. I hope the ECU is fine too. Looks to be good though as everything else works. Even all of the fuses, fusible links etc. are good. Maybe it really is the ignition relay that I can't get at. Damn Nissan for putting it in a spot only a gremlin could get to.

Seriously though, why would Nissan put the horn relay in a nice box in the engine bay but the ignition relay way up under the dashboard on the backside of the fuse block. Why damnit?!?!
2011-11-12 20:28:15
#13
Update
FIXED FIXED FIXED!!!

So I went out there this morning with the idea of swapping in the B15 ECU and seeing if it would start. I figured if it started then I had F'd up my Calum RT or there was a loose connection in my step-down harness. I knew it would want to die because of the VE TB and especially the E60 MAF but if it turned over I should have my answer. Well, it started with the B15 ECU. So now I figured I had toasted my Calum. I decided to unplug the B15 ECU and one more time try the Calum ECU. Well, it started so I figured it was just some loose wiring. I tidied up a couple of connections and the car runs. Funny thing is for the first time my VE is kinda quick!! I got the exhaust hole after the cat welded up and it sounds and runs much better now. Once again I love my exhaust note!!

Long story short I will probably be making another step-down harness to have as a back-up just incase. I will use what I learned from my first one and make it better.

It's funny how such a negative can turn into a bit of a positive!!

Now I just have to put my dash and the rest of my car back together.

Off to see a tuner guy tomorrow to hopefully tweek the tune and fix some trouble spots in the maps.

Scrildo Do you have any suggestions what I can use for switched 12v power, for the wideband, under the dash while I ave it apart? I want the wideband to receive no power until the car is started??


Thanks everyone who responded in this thread!
2011-11-12 22:53:18
#14
i have mine coming off the cig lighter. works well that way.
2011-11-12 23:03:56
#15
I always use the radio live and ign for aftermarket accessories, any wiring that does not need direct contact with the ecu loom should not go anywhere near it
2011-11-13 00:14:15
#16
I like those things from radio shack that goes into where the fuse is and then the fuse goes into it and then it has the wirie coming off of it I have no idea what its called though lol just drop the plastic cover under the steering column get your test light and test those wires switching the key on and off to see which one is a switched 12v source I have my wideband, greddy turbo timer and blitz boost controller wired under there its sooooo easy.
2011-11-13 00:31:24
#17
Wow never saw this type before anybody running these? Certainly beats the ghetto way of wrapping the wire around the tip of the fuse lol



On the website where I got the pic it says something about depending on which side of the fuse (hot side or cold side) you use whatever your installing could still be protected by the fuse I guess you'd just have to run a slightly higher amp fuse so it doesn't blow out
2011-11-13 00:39:33
#18
they r like 3 bucks a pack at autozone
2011-11-13 01:52:17
#19
I prefer the piggy back fuse...


Then you know you have coverage for your accessory.
2011-11-13 02:10:59
#20
Originally Posted by Chefjrod1
I prefer the piggy back fuse...


Then you know you have coverage for your accessory.


Lol dude that's exactly what I was talking about but I didn't know what it was called lol. I've only seen it for mini fuses though do they make them for regular sized fuses?
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