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Thread: Help please: car won't start after installing wideband. **UPDATED! :)

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Posts: 1-10 of 27
2011-11-12 02:24:32
#1
Help please: car won't start after installing wideband. **UPDATED! :)
Here's the story. Yesterday evening I installed my BNIB AEM UEGO. I finished up late in the evening and when I went to start the car the car wouldn't start. I examined what I thought might be a few problem areas but it was cold and late so I stopped. I resumed the search today, the first thing I did was open the ECU box to check my wiring as I had wired the 12V source from the wideband to pin #43/#38 which is ignition switch (B15/B14). Well somehow when I was working in there late last night I must have broken the connection. I fixed the broken wire and decided while I was in there that I would change the 12V power for the wideband from ignition switch to the Malfunction indicater lamp. With ignition switch the wideband gets power when the engine is cranking but with using the MIL pin #22/#18 (B15/B14) the wideband receives no power during engine cranking, which is what I want, yet still receives 11-14 volts with the engine running. Perfect! I closed everything up and the car still will not start.

- 2001 Sentra SE w/ PP
- SR20VE w/ B14 Calum R/T
- no issues with starting at all before this last AEM adventure

The car has full battery power/the starter is fine and the engine cranks. All accessories work. I have traced any and all wiring that I have done on the car.

I have checked:

- all relevant fuses (fuel/spark/ecm/engine control/electrical etc)
- fuel pump/fuel pump relay
- all relevant wiring/engine harness where I could
- has lots of fuel
- ECM relay

The only relay I think might be a problem is the ignition relay because the ignition switch wire was broken when I tried to start the car last night. I am not sure if it was partially touching or not. But the ECM relay and engine conrol fuses are all okay and the ECU appears to be working fine. I have not checked the ignition relay as it is in a near impossible place to get at behind the fuse block under the dash. I am really hoping not to have to take off the dash. So my question is, would the car crank if the ignition relay was toast? I am not even sure if the ignition switch pin is run through the ignition relay. I don't think it is as I believe it is only fused in the engine fuse box. I can not find it stated as such in the FSM for the B14 or B15.

Am I missing something here? Any suggestions would be appreciated!

Why won't my car start??
Last edited by B15NEOVVL on 2011-11-12 at 20-30-27.
2011-11-12 04:02:24
#2
is your key a chipped key, is it possibled you messed up the programing?
2011-11-12 04:47:58
#3
Yes chipped key. I guess that's possible as NATS is part of the ignition system. Funny thing is the alarm and everything else works fine. I've been looking over the NATS/IMU stuff and it is hard to even know where to start. I guess I could unhook the NATS and see if the car starts but somehow I think that might kill ignition all together. I wouldn't think bypassing the NATS system would be helpful but maybe I'm wrong. Will try that in the morning. Thanks for the idea!
2011-11-12 04:52:27
#4
First off what chassis nissan is this? Second off why the fack are you pulling power from down by the ecu dude? There are tons of other spots you could get the 12v source from besides there!
2011-11-12 04:56:27
#5
B15 chassis. I used power by the ECU because the AEM instructions said it needed to be a switched 12v power supply which is why I didn't just use the battery. I just figured it was easiest as I have a step-down harness there anyway.
2011-11-12 05:10:10
#6
Still there are numerous switched 12v power souces under the steering wheel make sure that 10mm nut for the ecu is tightened down all the way use a socket and not your finger
2011-11-12 05:13:18
#7
ECU nut was tightened with a ratchet. Wish I could start all over again as I wouldn't even have gone in there.
2011-11-12 05:21:57
#8
Damn man I hope you get this figured out. Did you mess with any wires under the hood? Distributor plug ignitor if it has one etc? First check for spark then check for fuel and work your way up. Is the fuel pump priming when you turn the key all the way?
2011-11-12 05:30:17
#9
listen for fuel pump. If you hear the hummm, then check for spark. i lit my girl up with a msd blaser coil once, and it put her on her ass... so just be careful when checking...
2011-11-12 05:31:36
#10
^^ Thanks. Nah I didn't touch anything else. Fuel pump is priming I can hear it prime for 5 seconds after I turn the key, like it is suppose to. Fuel pump fuses and relays are good too. Honestly didn't think it would be spark despite kowing you need spark air and fuel for combustion. Will pull a plug wire tomorrow morning and do the spark test to see. I checked for voltage at the dizzy and it is good there. Was supposed to be going to this tuner guy tomorrow to check my tune and to get my A/F ratios checked. Hard to go there if the car won't start!

I just had an idea. I am going to plug in my B15 ECU and see if it'll start. It would run like shit with the VE TB and the E60 MAF but it might start. If it didn't I could then eliminate the ECU and the step-down harness wire issues. Will see in the morning.
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