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Thread: manual rack

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Posts: 11-20 of 30
2011-10-19 18:52:31
#11
Originally Posted by eggman
make sure you get all the knucles/u-joint parts off the donor car when you get the rack...they are different.


X2 they are also very expensive from the dealer... even with my discount
2011-10-19 19:35:08
#12
What do i do about a belt since there is no pump
2011-10-19 20:16:23
#13
There are two things you can do;
1. Get a pump simulator... I think RTR used to make one. It's essentially a bearing in an aluminum box that uses the same P/S brackets... which will allow you to use the same belt, and tensioner... or...
2. You can get a different belt and yam that bish on. There are thread on this and the old forum about which specific belt you need to purchase if you go that route.

The other alternative is to fix your power steering, lazy! jk jk
2011-10-19 20:30:35
#14
do it, it works great...the steering ratio is ACTUALLY QUICKER from lock to lock, it empties out the bay quite a bit, only downside is no more "gangsta lean'n" one handed parking lot cruise's...you will need two hands to turn the wheel at slow speeds or when stopped...i used to DD my 200 and did alot of spirited driving around town through the twisty back roads and never had an issue and there were alot of tight turns and quick transitions left/right or vis versa

make sure you get the rack, boot, and the knuckle(it is different than one for a power rack-the knuckle is EXTREMELY important) and just get a power steering eliminator kit from gregV at gspec and your good to go

good luck
2011-10-19 21:12:23
#15
No tentioner needed.
Im running a duralast 250k3 belt, its a perfect fit. all you gotta do is unbolt 3 of the water pump Pulley bolts, loosen the 4th then pull pulley off enough to slip the belt on then reinstall pulley and bolts.

note; you have to get the duralast belt, its the only one that i could get to fit properly. I hope this saves you many trips to the parts store! :-)
Last edited by b13gfb4 on 2011-10-19 at 23-55-43.
2011-10-19 21:36:19
#16
u mean loosen all the bolts on the w/p pulley right?... not the water pump?
and i dont drive gangsta or leaned back in the chair lol
2011-10-19 21:37:09
#17
SOMEONE SELL ME A MANUAL RACK! lol
2011-10-19 21:56:47
#18
The steering ratio is not quicker. The Se-R rack needs less turns for full lock. I have it on my NX. Its good for preventing power steering leaks but that's about it.

I prefer the power steering for a daily driver. I don't have an opinion during a track day but I can't see how having to input more turn of the steering wheel would be beneficial on track.

I gutted a power steering pump to make sure I had the tensioner for the drive belt. You don't really need the gspec tensioner pulley. Its money and you can go about the conversion in a cheaper way. Either gut a power steering pump or run a short belt. I wouldn't recommend the short belt method though.
Last edited by TrackJunky82 on 2011-10-19 at 22-00-53.
2011-10-19 23:50:35
#19
Why no short belt? whats the best way to do it, i want to do it right.
2011-10-19 23:53:59
#20
Originally Posted by ga16eats
u mean loosen all the bolts on the w/p pulley right?... not the water pump?
and i dont drive gangsta or leaned back in the chair lol


Lol, yeah the pulley bolts, my bad! Ill go and edit it real quick
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