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Thread: Wire tuck how to:?

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Posts: 1-10 of 35
2011-10-15 18:59:44
#1
Wire tuck how to:?
I was wondering if there is one. I would like to start working on a wire tuck at some time and I was wondering how you guys go about starting this. I do plan on relocating the battery back to the trunk.

So I want to start looking into what I will need to start doing this tuck....ie: wire...zip ties... etc.

What do I need and where do I start?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
2011-10-15 19:09:38
#2
A assume this is on a b13, If you want to get rid of the fuse and relay boxes in the bay on a b13 its pretty simple and most require shortining of the wires. Start with moving them into the fender well. There are plenty of 10mm threaded holes in there that you can use to bolt the boxes up in there. You will need to extend a couple wires. Use solder and heat shrink. Also recommend to get some wire loom to protect the wires from water,dirt, and so on.

Its pretty straight forward, just make yourself a plan and start moving them and see what you need to cut and shorten, leave the same length and extend. B14's are a little more challenging because the fuse box harness is a little longer, you could bundle it all up in there but wont look very clean so shortening all those wires is a better way to go then you would need to extend others. Just try to use the same gauge wiring as the wires your extending. Other than that its just a matter of doing it.
2011-10-15 19:18:47
#3
If your wanting to do the engine bay as well, fortunately for us a majority of the harness is hidden pretty well, injector harness, trans wiring, and the accessory and power harness' that are on the driver frame rail are the only real wires that stick out any and the maf harness.

If you want to get rid of those from the top of the trans best way to do it is to extend them and run them along the firewall and underside of the frame rail, those 3 connectors go to the main fuse, relay and body harness on the drivers side. So you can tuck the connectors up in the fender well and extend all those wires to where they can be hidden. Injector harness, same way. extend the wires and move the hard plastic wrapped part down under the intake manifold and route your connectors up between the runners.

As for the alternator and stuff, same goes with that, move the connection point and relay box down into the fender well, depending on what model se-r you have that relay box on the passenger side is pointless and can be cut removed and discarded, Then route the wiring to the alt under the frame rail to the alternator. pretty easy, extend whatever wires you need to move the box.
2011-10-15 20:46:08
#4
Once you start cutting wires and relocating fuse boxes, you're just asking for electrical gremlins! Personally, I'd leave it alone, get some new wire loom fuse box lids (if the writing is no longer there) and call it a day.
2011-10-15 21:55:13
#5
its very indepth and time consuming when done right. short cuts will screw stuff up.
2011-10-15 22:00:54
#6
a few other things is delete A/C and P/S that cleans the bay up a bit..and brake line tuck u can get the brake line tuck stuff at summit racing..im in the process of doing a tuck cept its on a b14..also shaving the bay makes the tuck look so much better
Last edited by jdmb14sx on 2011-10-15 at 22-07-48.
2011-10-15 22:11:47
#7
Its kind of stupid imo. I am starting to think a big part of the problem I'm having is a half-assed wire tuck by prev owner.

I know the horn relay got corroded out from having that stuff 'tucked' in the fender well where the ill stance and 17s had rubbed out the liner.
2011-10-15 22:17:04
#8
its only stupid if its not done correctly
2011-10-15 22:28:13
#9
I did kind of a half assed tuck the first time and had a bundle of wires under the intake manifold all ziptied up. Couldnt see them unless you looked down behind there but it was still ugly. This time around If you havent seen my build thread I redid the engine harness using a milspec bulkhead quick disconnect connectors, Shortened all wires to where they were all proper length so there would be no bundling, added in all the wiring for my fuel pressure sensor, boost sensor, and oil pressure gauges, removed all wiring that wasnt needed. Loomed everything up with braided loom and heat shrunk all ends so its all nice and clean and came out excellent. Took me about 12-14 hours of work and that didnt include delooming a stock harness which i did before and that alone took about 3-4 hours. Soo much tape, haha

But the new harness is excellent and Im glad i spent the time on it that i did.
2011-10-16 15:28:04
#10
FYI Wayne has a B14

Start off with moving the battry and cleaning up that area. then see how much cleaner it looks. it's a giaint clusterfuck of wies all over the tranny area...
Last edited by NissanGuy on 2011-10-16 at 15-33-57.
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