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Thread: Issue after Clutch Replacement

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Posts: 1-10 of 25
2011-05-15 16:41:34
#1
Issue after Clutch Replacement
I just finished a clutch job on my 1993 SE-R with SR20VE engine. This is the second clutch for the engine.

After getting everything buttoned up, here is the issue: sitting still at idle, the tranny grinds when I shift into reverse and is balky going into first. This does NOT happen immediately after a cold start for a few minutes. The other gears shift normally when underway or at idle; the tranny shifts normally with the engine off. Once in a while, there will be a notchiness in the clutch pedal action for a single pedal stroke. Not very often, and not very predictable.

Some potentially noteworthy aspects of the clutch job:

1. This is a clutch kit by Exedy purchased from CAP clutch -- it's CAP's stage 3 clutch (second level above OEM replacement.)
2. I replaced the friction surface of the Fidanza flywheel.
3. The clutch job went on for several days, during which time the hydraulic jack I was using to support the engine lost pressure and let the engine sag on the mounts.
4. The VE block did not have any of the pins that align the tranny and engine, so the alignment relies on the bolts that hold the tranny to the engine.

Initially the cable had a fair amount of free play in it, but adjusting this out did not change the symptoms. Based on some other threads, I tried shifting with the clutch partially disengaged (to see if the cable needed more slack, but that did not work either).

Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Bill
Last edited by billc on 2011-05-16 at 13-53-35.
2011-05-16 04:05:52
#2
did it do this before the clutch job?

my car has done this everysince i've had it.. i think it maybe a clutch adjustment issue since my cables all the way adjusted but it seems like it needs to go further.. its a new cable even.

you NEED those alignment pins man those are very important.. if you do some searching you will find that alot of people have destroyed clutches (including my self) be cause we didnt have them..
2011-05-16 08:04:16
#3
Originally Posted by lynchfourtwenty
did it do this before the clutch job?

my car has done this everysince i've had it.. i think it maybe a clutch adjustment issue since my cables all the way adjusted but it seems like it needs to go further.. its a new cable even.

you NEED those alignment pins man those are very important.. if you do some searching you will find that alot of people have destroyed clutches (including my self) be cause we didnt have them..


+1 Very Very important. There's so much slop in the tranny to block bolts that the alignment dowels are crucial. Might not fix the issue, but its an important thing to get right.
2011-05-16 08:58:52
#4
You should jack up the front of the car and start it up, look for the engage point by slowly releasing it. Mine with my last clutch was half way in which the clutch would actually engage and to have it be where the floor was with it engaged I had to have like 2in of freeplay
2011-05-16 14:23:53
#5
First, thanks to both of you for reading about my problem and offering your thoughts. I really did search before posting, but only found threads about cable adjustment issues, nothing about the alignment pins. I guess I was not using the correct search terms. Anyway, on to problem solving.....

Originally Posted by lynchfourtwenty
did it do this before the clutch job?


Nope. Before the clutch job, the tranny shifted smooth as butter, it just started slipping on spirited up shifts. And when I installed the old clutch, I did not have the tranny alignment pins, so I have been running without the pins up to this point. However, for that first clutch, I mated the tranny to the engine when the engine was on a stand and I used a hoist to bring the tranny up to it. Maybe I just got lucky.

For this clutch, I did try to get the pins from a dealer, but the clowns at the dealership ordered the wrong pins so I just went ahead and moved forward. Waiting for those pins was the reason the job went on for several days. It was kind of a PITA to get the mating plate lined up without the pins, so I would like to have had them if only for that convenience.

With a slight misalignment, I can imagine the spinning crankshaft influencing the tranny input shaft at the location of the pilot bushing, causing the transmission to be in motion when the clutch is disengaged. I'm not an expert on the internal workings of the tranny, but this might possibly cause the grinding when the engine is at idle and the car at rest if it's physically possible for the crank to rub against the input shaft.

The other thing I want to check if (when) I remove the tranny again, is the runout of the flywheel. If the new friction surface is not properly seated, the clutch disc may not be able to fully disengage.

Thanks again for sharing your thoughts. I will come back with reports as I make more attempts to get this right. This is not my daily driver, so I have time to mess with it and get it right.

Bill
2011-05-16 15:24:48
#6
bill, i might have some pins if you want i can look for them and you can just pay shipping..

i dont think those are whats causing your problem since i have both pins an am having the same issue, but i've spoken to a few SR guys an i guess its pretty common for these transmissions..

what i do is shift to 2nd before shifting to 1st, try that i bet it will help.. as for reverse what i do is kinda go to 3rd then N wiggle the shifter a bit, then try to EASE it into reverse, sometimes bliping the throttle helps, or even lettin the clutch out juust a tad.. now those arent "fixes" but may help you cope with the problem lol.. i've gotten so used to it cause i been dealin with it the past 2 years lol

i have tryed to fix this problem alot but i've always failed.. i put in prothane mounts, new shifter stabilizer bushing, and other stuff as well.. i run the redline mt-90 also.. so idk what the true cause is but i'd love to know
2011-05-16 16:54:24
#7
Lunchfourtwenty -

Thanks again for your thoughts. Yea, I've been doing that going into second gear thing as well and it helps for both first and reverse. I used to do that with my 1954 Ford which had a "three on the tree" to get it into reverse with less drama.

I'll let you know about the pins -- I'm going to call Greg and if he can't help out, I'll get back to you. I don't want to put you to any trouble unnecessarily, but I appreciate the offer.

Bill
2011-05-16 17:15:52
#8
Ya u need those pins I bought my Se-r with a clutch issue that two owners could not fix or figure out! I believe between the two of them they put 4 clutches in it, it didn't have the alignment dowl pins. I replaced them and haven't had an issue yet other than I think the mis-alignment caused the input shaft bearing to go bad.
2011-05-16 20:54:05
#9
Originally Posted by billc
First, thanks to both of you for reading about my problem and offering your thoughts. I really did search before posting, but only found threads about cable adjustment issues, nothing about the alignment pins. I guess I was not using the correct search terms. Anyway, on to problem solving.....


I read your problem and there is no way your going to find it while driving. I think my answer was as legit as the rest lol
2011-05-16 20:56:39
#10
sorry dude i dont think thats going to help him one bit
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