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Thread: Installing cams

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Posts: 11-13 of 13
2008-03-14 10:39:48
#11
Another point of advice....

not sure if this helps or not, but i think you will understand when you get the valve cover off. A good way to ensure you don't snap your cams.... before you start to remove any cam caps... take your 1" open end and put it on the cam hex. Wriggle them back and forth and watch the rocker arms and springs. you'll want to get them free to the point where there is no extra spring force on any lobes from the valve springs.

At TDC apparently all the valves are closed (i.e. no extra pressure from valve springs)...

You don't have to do this... but its extra insurance: when removing and installing the cam caps watch the space in between the head & bottom of the cam caps for each cap... if you make sure they open/close with the same space (as you bolt and unbolt) between you can ensure that there is about the same pressure on all lobes. So you shouldn't shear the cams.

I usually do the intake first and then the exhaust.... but it doesn't matter.
2008-03-14 15:19:50
#12
Originally Posted by XxToKeSxX
Another point of advice....

not sure if this helps or not, but i think you will understand when you get the valve cover off. A good way to ensure you don't snap your cams.... before you start to remove any cam caps... take your 1" open end and put it on the cam hex. Wriggle them back and forth and watch the rocker arms and springs. you'll want to get them free to the point where there is no extra spring force on any lobes from the valve springs.

At TDC apparently all the valves are closed (i.e. no extra pressure from valve springs)...

You don't have to do this... but its extra insurance: when removing and installing the cam caps watch the space in between the head & bottom of the cam caps for each cap... if you make sure they open/close with the same space (as you bolt and unbolt) between you can ensure that there is about the same pressure on all lobes. So you shouldn't shear the cams.

I usually do the intake first and then the exhaust.... but it doesn't matter.


This is a very important step...after completing the tightening sequence provided by the FSM a 1/4 turn at a time I took the 1" open ended wrench and wiggled the cams back and forth. You don't have to do it all the time, but I did. This way you ensure that the cam is seated properly. Improperly seated cams = no good!

If you haven't already, read the "cam install f*cked" thread at the other site. Tons of information in it!!!

This was my reference:

http://www.geocities.com/n_dahi/

GL
2008-03-14 22:32:13
#13
Originally Posted by Sentrixx
Well being very sketchy about doing it myself the 1st time. Once you take the valve cover off and get your cams top dead center. It's really not that hard after that. Just when you take everything off especially the sprockets, make sure they are in order. And for the record, you don't *really* need a torque wrench to get them tight enough. But that's just me. I always have tighten them down to be tight and then snake pattern tighten from left to right one more more 1/4 turn. And has always worked for me.

Good luck, and let us know how it comes out.


I have swapped cams at least 20 times by now and I have never used a tq wrench, I always do it by hand. But being that this is his first cam swap, I would tell him to use a tq wrench because he doesnt have the feel down.
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