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Thread: HELP dim headlights

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Posts: 1-10 of 17
2011-02-23 07:35:43
#1
HELP dim headlights
i have a 91 sentra se-r i have the tsuru headlight conversion i had HIDS in it the one blew so i put the old bulbs back in and now my low beams are real dim and the high beam indicator is faintly on i have replace all the wiring and cleaned all the grounds, i have also tryed 2 dimmer switches and 2 headlight units that are on the steering colum i have tryed 2 different batteries also. If anyone might know the problem i would really appreciate it or if someone could guide me to a write up or something ive searched on here and googled it but no luck.
Thank you Allen
2011-02-24 04:31:50
#2
The tsuru h3/h4 bulbs have different resistance then the 9003 original bulbs so the highbeam indicator will slighty light up . I have the same issue for 8 years and just ignore it and leave the high beams on witch are about as bright as the stock low beams. If anyone has a remedy to it chime in. My guess is you would need a switch and relay from a mdm tsuru or a hid conversion using 9003 plugs with h3/h4 hid bulbs
2011-02-26 02:07:32
#3
It sounds like a wiring issue to me.
2011-02-26 02:24:29
#4
^^+2 i have mine converted to H4 with HID's and they work great!! check all grounds and the wiring... but by experience if you had some Ultrawhite bulbs they are usually higher in WATTS causing the wire to burn and it gets toasted so the current will not flow the same way. I had that issue so i just peeled the harness to a spot where the wire wasn't that way and soldered a new wire with the new H4 harness and VOILAAAAAAAAAA!! Nothing for now... GOOD LUCK!
2011-02-26 03:59:58
#5
but i have replaced the hold headlight harness and the under the dash harness and have cleaned all the grounds
2011-02-26 04:22:50
#6
I'm Having headlight problem s too....I'm just going to run allll new wires....
2011-02-26 06:27:21
#7
Relays. A dim bulb is almost always under-powered. You've replaced a lower power requirement headlight system with a higher one. Even if you replaced all the harnesses, the power run layout is the same. My SCC Car's lights use standard wires all the way to the lights, then relays powered right there off the positive lead from the battery, grounded straight into the chassis. The run for actual current used by the bulbs is < 1 foot. Also I found with 110W/80W Osram bulbs, far cheaper than any of the over the counter shit here, the Tsuru lights with just Halogen bulbs are very bright. However know they're not legal in many states, YMMV, Off-road use only

I've gotten adsurdly low priced high quality overstock, most Euro, some China-made with Euro Branding, as in $6-14 per side for fantastic Halogen bulbs.

Stock varies a lot but they have awesome x-ref charts.

H 12V 100W 80W P43T38 T4.625 DUPLO OT HD 75H 150H H4HD-100W-80W-12V-P43T DONSBULBS - H/12V/100W/80W/P43T38/T4.625/DUPLO/OT/HD/75H/150H H4HD-100W-80W-12V-P43T DONSBULBS - halogen light bulb lamp - donsbulbs - light bulbs lamps valve valves tube tubes
2011-02-26 06:38:35
#8
Consider leaving the wiring as is, get relays for the headlights
Originally Posted by PEDRONX2k
I'm Having headlight problem s too....I'm just going to run allll new wires....


Wish I had Coleman's Rally Beater wiring article so I could articulate why relays work so much better an the only new wiring you need is right at the light (which is included, usually).

Lower/Smaller gauge wire is fine to close a circuit like the switch back on the stalk. You don't need or want the kind of current optimal for the lights running all over the car. The slightest grounding issue, you're screwed. Plus with higher wattage bulbs drawing more current, you may blow fuses. The relays isolate the higher current into the absurdly short wire run from my positive battery lead to the lights and the neg on each relay shares the same ground as the battery leads.

Have to dig around on this but I have a feeling people may be approaching the issue the hard way. My lows/highs are bright as hell, the only bulb issues I have is lower life, usually a year, plus driving 450F/350R Progress CO's on the street, everything takes a little more beating, when you add in track use.

Excuse the total fvking mess, this was from before when I needed to move some stuff in a hurry so it looks like crap. You however can see the headlight relay, either high or low (I forget). Keeping in mind the blue cables are my "battery" (it's in the trunk).

HTH at least a little.

2011-02-26 22:26:46
#9
but the main reason im confused is before i put HIDs in my tsuru headlights worked just fine no problems then i put the HIDs in and one went bad so i just wanted to go back to (normal) headlights and encountered this problem
2011-02-27 10:46:58
#10
Originally Posted by Slowbird
but the main reason im confused is before i put HIDs in my tsuru headlights worked just fine no problems then i put the HIDs in and one went bad so i just wanted to go back to (normal) headlights and encountered this problem


Were the HID's plug and play or did you have to cut any wires?

I had HID's briefly, they fd up the reflector on my driver's side scorching it. I pulled them, attached the wires and bulbs (halogen) back up and tossed them in a box.

I can't see why you'd have issues unless somehow when you installed/removed the HID's something isn't right like the ground (hear ya, already checked, I know).
Last edited by superblackz on 2011-02-27 at 10-47-36. Reason: kant red
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