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Thread: OMG! Knock sensor replacement is annoying me!

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Posts: 31-40 of 42
2011-01-06 21:32:51
#31
Originally Posted by blo0d
where would be a good place to relocate the knock sensor sir?

I think he was saying that once you get the head off, you can take the knock sensor off, and then you can get the bolt shank out with some vise-grips.
2011-01-06 21:46:26
#32
Originally Posted by JakeB
find a shop with a pneumatic wrench...



air ratchets are garbage unless the bolt is already fairly loose. Then they are still garbage.
2011-01-06 22:16:22
#33
ummmm my knock sensor isnt connected....i dont think......hmmm has much effect with a calum basic? if i plug it in may it run worse?

but yeah a longer ratchte wrenhcgh is winner.
2011-01-06 22:41:07
#34
Mine was mildly difficult on my highport. I used a stanley long 12mm wrench by itself to loosen it, then did the rest with fingers. No PB or WD40. It was very tight though. I jacked my NX up on the pass side and did it on my back. You cant really put your hand up there and look at the same time, so you have to feel your way through it. Once you do get it off clean the spot where it mounts up to and lube the sensor and block with some of that spark plug dielectric grease. Make sure the connector end points to the front of engine (per FSM) and snug the bolt with your fingers, then 1/2-3/4 turn with the wrench should get it close to the right torque. Since there is no way to fit a torque wrench in there.
2011-01-07 00:30:03
#35
Really, is not that bad to change. You only need to be patient.

I was thinking, may be one of these can help do this job easier:



2011-01-07 04:50:03
#36
Thanks for the help guys-I was able to get the damn thing out. Well actually a friend of mine was LOL, I don't know how he managed to get it off but thank god he did. The old sensor was cracked on the upper left hand side which could explain the CEL code. We put the new one in and made sure not to over tighten the bolt LOL.

However, the car is still not able to pass 5,000 RPM at WOT so I'm back to square one. I never had any issues when the car was all motor so it's definitely turbo related. I am running heat range 7 plugs and gapped to .30. From what I've read on the forums that's about right for a t25 with 7psi. Could my sp gap be too small? Hitting the wall at 5,000 RPM is a waste of a boosted car!

btw..
330cc injectors @3bar
190lph fuel pump
b15 sr20de maf
93 octane gas
1 in and 1 out on SAFC II (I tried many settings 2/2, 3/3,4/4...and made no difference).
14.7 a/f ratio at idle, 11.2 WOT
NGK Plugs and OEM SP wires with OEM Cap and Rotor installed about 15,000 miles ago.
2011-01-10 01:08:31
#37
My b14 knock sensor was cracked everywhere when I pulled it.removing the I m is way too much work and nerve wrecking.the oil filter and its bracket must be removed to take out the final bolt.it was easier to Wd one day.next day I tried my ratcheting wrench but metal hose made clearance impossible to get the box over.so I used a standard box wrench.here's a trick for breaking it free:leverage.for your self.hold onto crossmember.and then slowly apply your pressure to break her loose very easy this way.taking out the bracket does give you more room but its not necessary
2011-01-10 03:33:48
#38
Might be in limp.possibly need an upgraded maf. Like a maxima or 300zx maf.might have maxed out maf?
2011-01-10 03:34:36
#39
OK so it's been a few days since I replaced the sensor but the code is still coming up even after resetting the light. I drove the car 10 miles after resetting the light without going into boost. After another 2 miles the light came on and I pulled over right away and checked the codes. P0325 is still popping up even when I don't boost so I'm even more confused.

ANy suggestions on what my next step should be?
2011-01-10 03:35:19
#40
Originally Posted by rojeda1217
Might be in limp.possibly need an upgraded maf. Like a maxima or 300zx maf.might have maxed out maf?


Thanks for your posts, I actually provided some info below related to this. It even does it when not in boost so it's not a MAF issue either.
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