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Thread: OMG! Knock sensor replacement is annoying me!

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Posts: 11-20 of 42
2011-01-06 13:01:30
#11
Originally Posted by zacward
The easy way I found is to have a GOOD ratcheting wrench. Having the right tools makes any job easier! Maybe you just need a longer wrench... but I love ratcheting wrenches haha


x2 on the ratcheting wrench, that's exactly how I got my knoq sensor off.
2011-01-06 13:17:38
#12
its just one of those annoying fixes.... just take a break gather your self and get at it when your mentally good... working on cars when frustrated usually makes more issues... or just read the code to c if its ur knock... also your car should feel slower if its a knock sensor issue, it pulls timing
2011-01-06 13:43:48
#13
Originally Posted by sr20monkey
Wrench Tips #7 - The Box-End Breaker Bar. try this
Originally Posted by Mr
I placed a wrench exactly like the picture shows plus another open wrench at the botton of the first wrench to get it loose. Like this:
This is your answer.

Originally Posted by FuLLah
Is there anywhere else on the motor I can relocate the knock sensor to after I pull it out?
No. The knock sensor is tuned to listen at that one spot. If you move it elsewhere, you might as well not have it at all. It needs to be between cylinders 2 and 3 and up high near the combustion chamber to listen for knock from all four cylinders as best it can. That's why it is where it is.

Originally Posted by Rittmeister
I played with mine for several hours a few years back. Between the firewall, the starter and the intake manifold it's a b!tch. What's funny is looking in the FSM and seeing that the torque value is only 8 or 12 ft-lbs or something. I've broken several loose from engines that were out of the car (so it was easy to get to) and there's no WAY they were only 8-12! Had to be much more.
Same here. I boggles the mind how they get so tight. Monkeys at the factory I figure. Or maybe the dealership. They are so damn tight when they should be very loose.
2011-01-06 14:00:35
#14
Just walk away, regroup and try again, persistency pays off in the end.
2011-01-06 14:06:30
#15
The main problem is the 10mm wrenches are never long enough, hence not enough leverage.

Put on a glove that can take some pain away from pushing the wrench, and cuff and fuss away
2011-01-06 14:09:22
#16
Originally Posted by Vadim
12mm wrenches
Fixed that for yah.
2011-01-06 14:14:11
#17
Die grinder on a dremel tool to grind down the head of the bolt. I did it on mine with good results.
2011-01-06 14:38:46
#18
If it's rounded, you should consider relocating. Otherwise, as others have said, use the interlocking wrench method.

I hate that fucking sensor.

-G
2011-01-06 14:44:36
#19
Originally Posted by Mr
Like this:


Is kind of difficult and you need to be patient but it can be done.


Originally Posted by Vadim
hence not enough leverage.

Put on a glove that can take some pain away from pushing the wrench, and cuff and fuss away


Exactly, just need leverage. And some wd40 (or equivalent).

btw, Harbor Freight sells some long, cheap 12mm open box wrenches.
2011-01-06 17:47:41
#20
Originally Posted by Mr
There is not enough space between the sensor and that metal tube showed in the picture to use that kind of wrench. You need to use an open wrench like the picture shows.


That sucks. I was working on my S13 changing out the shifter mechanism and that thing saved me. Have you figured it out?
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