Thread: Small oil leak...

is there really anything wrong with the $12.99 ones from Harbor Freight? Mine has worked great for years

Agreed. If it is not real obvious, I want every single repair done correctly. Fix it once, fix it 100% right. No short-cuts on my baby.


I shall purchase a timing light.


IIRC, there is a "How To" on setting your timing...I think. I'll go poke around in the Technical Libraries and How-To's.



Either way, that is less than a hour of labor in cost. Might as well just go crazy and see if I can accomplish this fix correctly.

Distributor O-ring and a timing-light.

I've already got basic hand-tools, socket set, and wrenches. 12mm is no problems.

IMO the best timing lights are the simple ones (without any bells and whistles). The timing lights with dials never made any sense to me (at least for us Nissan owners).
If you can find a $13 timing light from Harbor Freight, more power to yah. I'm sure it works correctly.
I usually get stuck paying around $50 for the simple one from Advance Auto. I'll have to check out Harbor Freight next time I need one.

I don't think it is a tool worth spending a lot of money on. The expensive ones usually are so because they have all these doohickies that are useless if you ask me. I've never found a high quality, simple timing light that would last "forever" and be worth buying. I haven't looked very hard though.

I got stuck for $50 at sears timing light

If it ain't leakin', then it don't run right!!!

I have had good luck just carefully marking the distributor and mounting bracket to restore the timing setting that existed before the distributor was removed. Just line up the marks and you are going to be real close. But I have to admit that I also check it with a timing light just to make sure.

You sort of need to know the history of your timing setting to make the right decision. If the timing was set to some certain spec (like 17*), then you need to know that so you can set it back there with the light. If it was set on a dyno by trial and error, you might need to measure the timing before the distributor is taken out so that spec can be restored.

I'm making this too complicated, aren't I?

Simple it shall be.


Will do on marking the dizzy and bracket. Then I'll check it with the light.


I can literally call my mechanic Mike in Houston. IIRC, I had him set it at 17-degrees.


Keep in mind my utter and complete mechanical ignorance.

I noticed there is a How To on the ignition timing:

http://www.sr20-forum.com/naturally-aspirated-all-motor/2566-how-adjusting-ignition-timing.html

Ahem...there is also a How To on changing your engine oil. I'll be using that as well.

No you wont. You have my number... Call me while you are doing it and I will walk you through everything. Timing and brakes. I am always more than glad to help a buddy.

Also your parts are on the way . Today I went by the post office and they said they were just getting cought up.

I just changed mine. I did not remove any plugs or anything, just took off the 12mm bolts, wiggled the dizzy loose, used a flathead screwdriver to take off the old ring. put on the new ring, replaced dizzy back and put the 12mm bolts. Easy as pie. Hopefully, it was the same problem that you are experiencing and I am about 99% sure we had the same thing going on. (Even had the same drip marks on the EGR tube!)

I'm gonna follow that, with a scratch mark to make sure I put it back in the exact place.

I'm still gonna get a timing light and check it. Make sure it is at 17-degrees.

Greg V called me earlier today to double-check my new shipping addy on the new ring.