Thread: B14 Cable to Hydraulic Conversion

asthon, did you take the spacer thats made onto the pedal?

I cut the spacers off the pedal which in turn now that i think about it i could have just left the right-side spacer on the pedal there and cut the left one off.

Due to the way it sits on the firewall and with my modification for the upper mounting bolt the right side of the pedal tends to sit away from the firewall a bit and the left-side of it sits flush. I used one exhaust manifold thick washer and it worked fine. Everything was nice and straight going through the firewall and all mounting bolts and nuts were tight. Its been hydaulic for a year without any issues on my car.

Again you can get used to the pedal position really quick.

I also removed the spacers that are normally on the firewall of the b13 and b14's as well. Just chissled it out with a hammer and pry bar and bent them till the tack welds broke.

Worked great. It just initially took a lot of test fitting and removing to get everything lined up straight and where i wanted it. Drilling the new holes in the firewall to line up with the pedal and master cylinder was a pain because i didnt have an angle drill. But not too bad.

Anyone with any type of custom fabrication skills can do the pedal swap. I suck at fabricating stuff as well but it really just takes looking at it, test fitting, removing, looking at it some more and making sure you have it checked and double checked where everything is gonna be.

Does anyone have any pictures of this conversion?

cut this off the b15 pedal



here is how it sat mounted up. You have to drill new holes for the clutch master cylinder to go through to sit the pedal in the right position and line the welded plate up with the upper hole. This will position the pedal right or close.



Here you can see the welded on upper plate which is 1/8" flat steel 2" wide by 3" long







The new holes have to be drilled approximately 30 deg rotated clockwise. You can use the pedal assembly to mark the holes by lining it up where it needs to be and sit correctly and then mark with a sharpie on the firewall. You have to remove the tack welded spacer that sits behind the b13 pedal assembly. You have to cut the left-side spacer off the b15 pedal assembly thats welded onto the surface mating against the firewall. Leave the right-side one as it will allow the pedal to sit straight and not twist when tightening the upper bolt and two nuts down. Make sure to position the opening for the master cylinder to come through correctly as well. If you make it crooked or too high or too low it wont sit straight and bind. Its really not that hard of a job to do. I have very little fab skills and I did the welding and measuring and crap myself. lol.

Here you can see how it sits against the firewall and why i should have left my right-side spacer on. I used exhaust washers to space it out between the firewall and pedal assembly again only on the right side. The left side will sit flush agains the firewall. The firewall is a bit different shape from the b13 to the b15 obviously.



Master cylinder mounted



reservoir mounted



Areal view, lol

Anyone bother to think that the bracket on the firewall may be to stop the firewall from flexing when pushing the pedal?

Dont you have a pretty heavy clutch, Ashton? Can you get someone to work the peddle while you watch the firewall?

Yes i have before. The spacer is no more than just that, a spacer. break it off the firewall before doing the conversion. You will actually have more contact surface of the pedal assembly on the firewall with it mounted this way. My firewall does not flex at all and yes i have a Competition Twin Disk clutch that has a very heavy pressure plate. Its heavier than an ACT extreme which i also ran on this hydro setup. But i can say this, not near as heavy as with a cable clutch pedal and soo much smoother. Best thing you could do to the car as far as clutch is concerned.

Does anyone have a pic of a b13/b14 tranny with the new slave cylinder and arm/fork installed? And maybe even a pic of this washer u guys r talking about that goes by the slave cylinder?

^It will look pretty much identical to a '99 P11 setup. The "washer" is just an aluminum spacer. If you're running an aftermarket PP, you will probably not need it.

Ok, thanks. Also, say I have a b13 tranny and wanna put that into a P11, (don't ask y plz hahaha) would the back end/cover that has the driverside mount holes on the top swap right over to the b13 tranny? (U know, the longer part of the tranny with fins.)

If you were to want to put a B13 tranny into a P11 chassis, you would have to swap the P11 case onto the B13 transmission.