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Thread: R134a compressor with r12 refrigerant...

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Posts: 11-20 of 25
2010-06-02 05:55:50
#11
Originally Posted by BORNGEARHEAD
Just get the r134 fittings(maybe $20-35) pull a good, long vacuum on it, add r134 oil, charge it. Done! The r134 will be plenty cold for you.


It will not last long before it blows the seals with the 134 in the system.





Chris.
2010-06-02 05:57:27
#12
Originally Posted by vqman
Is it an r12 condensor? I'm not sure what year they switched over to r134a..

To everyone else, you can get r12 still, but a person with a license has to install it. It isn't manufactured anymore, but it is recycled out of cars that convert to r134a, then it is cleaned and reused. This is why it's so expensive.

My dad is a butcher, has been all my life growing up and all. So he basically works in a freezer.

My house was always ice cold growing up...
I like it cold an will pony up for r12.


Like I said you can still get it, you just have to be a certified tech. I am a

certified tech so I am able to buy it. R12 does drop the temps better than

134 but it's way harder to get.




Chris.
2010-06-02 06:29:37
#13
Originally Posted by vqman
my car is a 1991. The system is r12. Only the compressor is r134a.
R134a molecules are tiny and will leak out faster in my r12 system.


You should replace the seals.

Originally Posted by vqman

It's also colder, up to 10 degrees colder out of the vents...


This is because the system was designed to operate using R-12. If you have an actual R-134a compressor, this may not be true. The compression ratio will differ and the resulting fluid properties at the evaporator will change as a result. It's not the same as putting R-134a into an R-12 system.

Originally Posted by vqman

Cost is not a factor.


But the environment is a factor. R-12 is MUCH worse for it. Ask me for legitimate sources and I will give you them.

Originally Posted by vqman

I want R-12


You do not want R-12. R-12 is a more effective refrigerant, but it does not mean that R-134a can't give you air just as cold (at least at the mild temperatures involved with auto AC).
2010-06-02 06:40:19
#14
Danja, I do want r12. this is like me telling you that you don't want an sr20, and that you should go buy a Leaf instead..

I recall Dupont (who created r134a) as the leading research team who "discovered" that r12 was killing the ozone.

I don't want a political thread here, I want cold ac.

If you can assist me with info to aid in getting my system to work with r12 that would be great. Otherwise I would greatly appreciate it if you started another thread to discuss your views on the environment and the contaminants you believe we are putting into the ozone - don't forget o start it in off topic. ;-)
2010-06-02 06:51:23
#15
Originally Posted by vqman
Danja, I do want r12. this is like me telling you that you don't want an sr20, and that you should go buy a Leaf instead..

I recall Dupont (who created r134a) as the leading research team who "discovered" that r12 was killing the ozone.

I don't want a political thread here, I want cold ac.

If you can assist me with info to aid in getting my system to work with r12 that would be great. Otherwise I would greatly appreciate it if you started another thread to discuss your views on the environment and the contaminants you believe we are putting into the ozone - don't forget o start it in off topic. ;-)


Agreed. I wasn't trying to start a discussion like that either, just felt that the comments were relevant to this thread. I think you will be fine if you get the system completely drained and make sure to include the correct lubrication. IIRC, the R-12 mixes with the oil more easily than R-134a too. If you can get as shop to do a normal charge I think that will take care of everything.
2010-06-02 06:57:58
#16
Originally Posted by Danja
Agreed. I wasn't trying to start a discussion like that either, just felt that the comments were relevant to this thread. I think you will be fine if you get the system completely drained and make sure to include the correct lubrication. IIRC, the R-12 mixes with the oil more easily than R-134a too.


This will not work. I have already said that you can not retrofit a R12 system

with 134 without changing anything. YOU WILL BLOW THE SEALS, it will leak

all the 134 refrigerant out and you will be right back to where you are at right

now....



Chris.
2010-06-02 07:00:32
#17
Originally Posted by 91B13DET
This will not work. I have already said that you can not retrofit a R12 system

with 134 without changing anything. YOU WILL BLOW THE SEALS, it will leak

all the 134 refrigerant out and you will be right back to where you are at right

now....



Chris.


Sorry, I should have been more specific. I agree with you. I meant a normal charge using R-12, not R-134a. As in, NOT retrofitting, but draining the compressor and just charging the system with R-12.
2010-06-02 12:14:52
#18
You can use your R12 with a 134a compressor. However, keep in mind that the R134a is designed with higher pressures in mind. So your low/high side pressures are going to be a little different using the 134a.

It isn't rocket science guys. These two refrigerants are have very similar properties. They will require different oil types. Ester oil works well for R12 and conversion systems, but if you run 134a you will want the added benefit of the PAG oil. I believe Nissans use PAG46.

So running R12 on your R134a system will cause absolutely nothing to change on your car. The R134a, though having higher pressures, the clutch cycling switch will still cycle the AC at the same set pressures the system ran originally.
2010-06-04 02:05:01
#19
yes it will work using an r134a compressor on an r12 system. R134a compressors run on pag oil R12 compressors run on mineral oil to be able to mix and lube properly. since your using the r134a compressor with r12 use Polyester oil aka "ester oil" this oil is used when converting to 134a from an r12 system. ester oil will mix fine with r12 and r134a systems. mineral oil wont lube that r134a compressor properly.


since your compressor locked up for sure you ac system is contaminated. flush it out and put in new drier and expansion valve. vac for 1 hour for best results.. oil up and charge away.. good luck..
2010-06-04 02:17:38
#20
I know of 3 cars running right now that were converted to r134 without doing anything but changning the fittings so the newer machines could fit them, evacing the system, and putting in new oil. One is an se-r, another is a toyota tercel, and another is a chevy pickup. They are all driven daily. None of them have blown anything up. I'm not saying it has never happened, this is my experience. I believe the seal rumor was started so people could make more money off of you. I don't want to argue about pressures or anything like that, just saying what I witnessed.
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