Thread: valve cover, intake manifold and engine bay are too HOT.

Well it seems to me are shooting down everything I said based on economy and emissions on a performance oriented board. It loooks like you are trying to call me a ricer based on information that is 1. not true and 2. has not been introduced to this thread and has no correlation with the conversation about cooling. All this from just posting some simple cooling mods. Who is really taking things out of proportion?

Think about what makes the intake charge hot. It is radiant heat in the engine bay mostly from the exhaust manifold and the radiator on NA cars. Now if we isolate that heat or duct it out of the car what happens to the intake charge it goes down right?

If all you are worried about is the car not warming up and switching fuel maps fast enough ( it does this at 165* mind you). Then you can do things pick up an oil pan heater like this one Amazon.com: Kat's 24150 150 Watt 4"x 5" Universal Hot Pad Heater: Automotive (if you are a hypermiler you should already be doing this). If you are worried about over cooling the motor with your new cooling mods ( keep in mind which is very hard to do). You could find a piece of cardboard and stick it in front of half the radiator. It is a ghetto mod but it works.

How hard was that to fix? There is no reason to live in fear of modding your car.

I did not personally call you a ricer, you were the one that started getting personal by calling me a sourpuss. But whatever!!

I've shot your ideas down for a reason. One of the core reasons is that you're following a diagnostic path that doesn't make sense, and the second is that you're thinking in OBD1 when we are dealing with OBD2 cars here.

Intake charge gets hot to the detriment of performance when:

A. Incredibly hot outside and you've been idling in stop and go, IE stop 'n go in 100+ degree metropolitian traffic.
B. You have a crappy metal eBay short ram intake and you're in traffic or doing slow city driving.
C. Your car is overheating from cooling system problems like a bad waterpump.
D. You're on the track keeping your car at 4000-6000rpm for extended periods of time.

Cooling the intake is good for performance, but it will not cool the motor itself. The motor maintains a steady temperature by design. The oil lubricates better when it is hot, also. You do not want to run the motor any cooler than it was designed to run.

If you put heat wrap on things, you reduce their ability to dissipate heat. It's like wrapping someone going through heat stroke in a blanket. That would provide the opposite effect of what you're looking for.

And again, if you have a stock intake, the plastic shields it from heat already.

There is no need for the OP to do anything to his car. But checking the temp from the ECU would be a good idea to calm his nerves :P

I'd give you props for any of these solutions if they had merit. I do not have anything personal against you. I think the OP is just hyperventilating. All motors are hot to the touch after being ran, even the intake parts. They are connected to the motor after all, and the motor radiates heat all the way to the throttle body. Think of it as a large heatsink.

Oy, i've thought about an oil warmer but i don't have a garage anymore and it only gets that cold out here for a month anyway.

I'm all for modding, just don't do it the wrong way. Like i said, sr20de message boards are full of people doin' it wrong and then complaining that their cars are broken. I'm just trying to be helpful. I remember when i was kinda a car noob and had no clue. I made some pricey mistakes.

Lol this isn't getting anywhere I give up. I think we are just looking at the problem in a different way. You are looking to see if something can be fixed to OEM. I am looking for things to upgrade or improve upon.

if you want you can get a nismo thermostat thats going to open early to transition the coolant better.

also if you are going to get another thermostat go with a fail safe that if it fails it will fail open and not closed, this is a good way to prevent stupid damages

Actually a lower degree thermostat is not a great idea, i am not sure why people install those at all. You end up running cooler than normal most of the time and taking longer to
warm up entirely. You end up with worse fuel economy that way.

If you're doing it to prevent overheating, the only thing it does for you is delaying the overheating. The best choice is an upgraded radiator.

But the stock cooling system, in normal driving, is pretty damn robust given that it's not broken.

I thought all thermostats were designed to fail in the open position. Were ours not? If so i may pre-emptively replace mine because that would lead to an epic failure O_O. I remember that my '91 maxima's failed open.

personally i run the nismo thermostat,koyo R radiator,fal fans, and never run into any of those issues at all. going on 4 years now