Beyond FSM questions about how to tune the SR20DE
Q1 I've read that before on this forum the crank pulley can seperate, but I don't understand how this is possible or why a metal pulley would consist of 2 parts. Would somebody please explain this to me?
My readings are like this
[ ] | | | | | ----- p
[ ] = big white mark
| = little marks
p = Where the pin is at and the only setting the car runs proper on (with correct AAC, MAF and working TPS. To confuse things even more, neutral switch is broken now (was intermittent for a while) and temp valve opens about 10 degrees Celcius too early. (replacing the AAC for a good one made the temp valve problem clear).
(- = to show pin is pretty off, forum cut's extra spaces)
However, I do have a steady reading on the pulley so I seem to not need a working neutral switch for timing mode.
Also, from day one I got a timing gun, pin showed where I drew it. But I kept advancing it and the dizzy housing is on a scale 0 (retarded all the way) to 100 on 85.
Q2 Where would my timing be at right now? And does the running rich (sparks show this finally (bad AAC actually was the wrong AAC for this engine) allow me to advance the timing a bit too much?
Advancing it further makes the engine sound like a run away (is this called hunting in English?) So I got the Datascan, timing gun, but no proper readings.
Q3 Is there another possibility why I don't get proper readings? If not, can I swap the crank pulley withous losing distribution chain setting?
Q4 Sparks show signs of pig rich, is it true that the broken neutral switch makes the car run too rich when in gear?
Lambda is fine. WOT is what it should be now (I went from fast but defects to less defects and poor performance to fast again but seems to surge here and there which probably is the temp valve and TPS closed signal is random between 0,20 - 0,26 Volt so I had to set it to 0,20 Volt. Sorry for the long story,
Q5 How do I get my throttle closed signal appear with TPS Voltage 0,5 Volt like FSM kept saying (I worked trought the whole EF & EC today) instead of 0,20 Volt?
So, I probably am not on the 15 degrees stated in FSM, but well beyond that, but FSM also says make sure car under no load @ 2000 rpm has timing > 25, No matter what I do, even advancing it to 100%, I'm stuck on 24 degrees.
Q6 How is it possible I can't get past 24 degrees?
Please advice me to help me understand the ECU and sensors.
Q7 Is there a way to learn what is going on in the standard ECU? For me it's still a (partial) black box, which sets me back sometimes.
Thank you!
My readings are like this
[ ] | | | | | ----- p
[ ] = big white mark
| = little marks
p = Where the pin is at and the only setting the car runs proper on (with correct AAC, MAF and working TPS. To confuse things even more, neutral switch is broken now (was intermittent for a while) and temp valve opens about 10 degrees Celcius too early. (replacing the AAC for a good one made the temp valve problem clear).
(- = to show pin is pretty off, forum cut's extra spaces)
However, I do have a steady reading on the pulley so I seem to not need a working neutral switch for timing mode.
Also, from day one I got a timing gun, pin showed where I drew it. But I kept advancing it and the dizzy housing is on a scale 0 (retarded all the way) to 100 on 85.
Q2 Where would my timing be at right now? And does the running rich (sparks show this finally (bad AAC actually was the wrong AAC for this engine) allow me to advance the timing a bit too much?
Advancing it further makes the engine sound like a run away (is this called hunting in English?) So I got the Datascan, timing gun, but no proper readings.
Q3 Is there another possibility why I don't get proper readings? If not, can I swap the crank pulley withous losing distribution chain setting?
Q4 Sparks show signs of pig rich, is it true that the broken neutral switch makes the car run too rich when in gear?
Lambda is fine. WOT is what it should be now (I went from fast but defects to less defects and poor performance to fast again but seems to surge here and there which probably is the temp valve and TPS closed signal is random between 0,20 - 0,26 Volt so I had to set it to 0,20 Volt. Sorry for the long story,
Q5 How do I get my throttle closed signal appear with TPS Voltage 0,5 Volt like FSM kept saying (I worked trought the whole EF & EC today) instead of 0,20 Volt?
So, I probably am not on the 15 degrees stated in FSM, but well beyond that, but FSM also says make sure car under no load @ 2000 rpm has timing > 25, No matter what I do, even advancing it to 100%, I'm stuck on 24 degrees.
Q6 How is it possible I can't get past 24 degrees?
Please advice me to help me understand the ECU and sensors.
Q7 Is there a way to learn what is going on in the standard ECU? For me it's still a (partial) black box, which sets me back sometimes.
Thank you!