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Thread: Making a short shifter out of the stock one?

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Posts: 21-30 of 46
2009-06-02 05:50:26
#21
I moved the pivot on my stock shifter, and then cut of a section below the threaded part then had it welded back on. The shifter now sits right at my knee, and it short with out being too short. Best short shifter you can buy / not buy lol.
2009-06-02 05:57:16
#22
Originally Posted by lennySE-R
Great. That link is basically what I was looking for.


2009-06-02 06:13:26
#23
Awesome. I really have to do this. I've been excited about it since Ben mentioned it to me.
2009-06-02 15:04:29
#24
Sorry I didn't get to this until now. How far do you want to move it? On the pacesetter, we always threaded the ball all the way up the threads until there was two threads left for about an 80% throw reduction (none of this pussy 40% from most Honda, MOPAR, etc. short throw shifters) or no threads left if you're a complete bad-ass like eggman. On a stock shifter, I'd move the ball up an entire inch. This will give you about the 80% you should be after. You'll think it is insanely short for a while and you'll love it. After a couple months you'll want it shorter.

You will need to either modify your heat shield to make room for the lower hanging lever or remove it completely and forget it ever existed. I haven't had mine for 5 years and I've had no trouble.

Coheed, I don't care how you sugar coat the chop method, it's still the chop method, and it's full-on rice.

As for all the talk of cutting the top of the shift lever, don't do it. You'll want the entire length so the shifter is as tall as possible to keep it close to the steering wheel so your hand has less distance to move to it. Also the threads are good if you want to keep the stock knob or a lot of aftermarket knobs will use those threads. Also you'll want all the leverage you can get now that your throw is shorter. Trust me.
2009-06-02 15:09:27
#25
And Nate, there is another bushing on the end of the shift lever you'll want to replace with urethane while you have everything apart. I think...
Then again, if you ditch the heat shield you can always do it another time with not much hassle.
2009-06-02 15:23:43
#26
Ya, I thought about that after taking the shifter out last night...the stock one is all torn and crappy...the bushing where the end of the shifter and the linkage arm hook up.

I can't find one though. ES didn't list one on their web site. Any idea who makes one?

I'm sure the B&M shifter kit probably comes with a new bushing for that area.
2009-06-02 22:49:03
#27
Here is a picture of my shifter. It doesn't sit on the floor by any means. My shift knob is super long so I had to cut the shifter rod a bit.



I also forgot to add that I have the cs shifter bracket installed which I'm sure makes a huge difference in feel as well.

2009-06-03 00:45:10
#28
The bushing you use for the bracket is a 7/16th sway bar bushing from ES.
2009-06-03 02:53:38
#29
Originally Posted by BenFenner
Sorry I didn't get to this until now. How far do you want to move it? On the pacesetter, we always threaded the ball all the way up the threads until there was two threads left for about an 80% throw reduction (none of this pussy 40% from most Honda, MOPAR, etc. short throw shifters) or no threads left if you're a complete badd-ass like eggman. On a stock shifter, I'd move the ball up an entire inch. This will give you about the 80% you should be after. You'll think it is insanely short for a while and you'll love it. After a couple months you'll want it shorter.

You will need to either modify your heat shield to make room for the lower hanging lever or remove it completely and forget it ever existed. I haven't had mine for 5 years and I've had no trouble.

Coheed, I don't care how you sugar coat the chop method, it's still the chop method, and it's full-on rice.

As for all the talk of cutting the top of the shift lever, don't do it. You'll want the entire length so the shifter is as tall as possible to keep it close to the steering wheel so your hand has less distance to move to it. Also the threads are good if you want to keep the stock knob or a lot of aftermarket knobs will use those threads. Also you'll want all the leverage you can get now that your throw is shorter. Trust me.


Very well put
Its funny how fast you forget what a difference the short throw is.
Uh...until you drive one stock and feel like you are rowing a boat
Pacesetter FTW
2009-06-03 03:00:35
#30
Originally Posted by BenFenner
Sorry I didn't get to this until now. How far do you want to move it? On the pacesetter, we always threaded the ball all the way up the threads until there was two threads left for about an 80% throw reduction (none of this pussy 40% from most Honda, MOPAR, etc. short throw shifters) or no threads left if you're a complete badd-ass like eggman. On a stock shifter, I'd move the ball up an entire inch. This will give you about the 80% you should be after. You'll think it is insanely short for a while and you'll love it. After a couple months you'll want it shorter.

You will need to either modify your heat shield to make room for the lower hanging lever or remove it completely and forget it ever existed. I haven't had mine for 5 years and I've had no trouble.

Coheed, I don't care how you sugar coat the chop method, it's still the chop method, and it's full-on rice.

As for all the talk of cutting the top of the shift lever, don't do it. You'll want the entire length so the shifter is as tall as possible to keep it close to the steering wheel so your hand has less distance to move to it. Also the threads are good if you want to keep the stock knob or a lot of aftermarket knobs will use those threads. Also you'll want all the leverage you can get now that your throw is shorter. Trust me.


It doesn't matter if you shorten the top, or move the fulcrum. You are still just modifying the throw by changing the method. Of course, my hacked off stock one still shifts like stock, isn't notchy like the crappy "real" short-throws are, and the throw is only 5-6 inches at most.

You are still moving the bottom of the fulcrum the same distance to change gears, so it doesn't really matter. But whatever. I'll take some picks of my crappy cut-off stock one and you can see how short the throw is with ZERO compromise to shift quality. You can move the fulcrum point if you want, but my shortened "truck shifter" just feels like it should have come on the car from the factory.
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