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Thread: Crossmember bolts stripped/damaged

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Posts: 21-30 of 44
2009-02-27 00:01:25
#21
I picked up a tap today, I'm going to try to retap/clean up the threads and put in new bolts and see how it goes. If there's still a problem, I'll see about it. I get some pretty killer shipping rates, so if you're willing to let me borrow it, I bet I could do the shipping for less than $20 a way. I'll let you know how the tapping goes tonight!
2009-02-27 03:01:29
#22
Originally Posted by Setzer
If it is the front you can just drill it out and use a nut and bolt, if it's the back yea drill and tap larger or run an insert like time sert / helicoil.


I might need your help to fix this on my car too bro. I know that one of the bolts actually popped out and it's just a hole there, and the other is stripped.
2009-02-27 07:06:14
#23
Originally Posted by dr.fowler
I'm gonna try to use the time-serts, and keep the stock bolts. I gotta think there's a reason for the goofy shape.


Do it - I snapped off one of the rears, hit something with my Progress LCA brace that has a center attach through the rear crossmember.

I drilled out the other bolt's center with cobalt bits, use spiral and tapered bolt extractors from sears, the threads looked like crap. I chased the threads with a spare bolt and a little cutting oil, they are fine - they just had bits of the old bolt left over.

I picked up new bolts from the stealership, no worries now.
2009-02-27 10:02:07
#24
Originally Posted by dr.fowler
I'm gonna try to use the time-serts, and keep the stock bolts. I gotta think there's a reason for the goofy shape.


If you mean the very wide bolt heads, then it's probably to reduce the stress on the crossmember (so there is no chance they would pop through). A decent washer would do you as much good.
2009-02-27 15:01:31
#25
Originally Posted by Danja
If you mean the very wide bolt heads, then it's probably to reduce the stress on the crossmember (so there is no chance they would pop through). A decent washer would do you as much good.


I'm not just talking about the wide heads, I'm talking about the block that's underneath that. It's about half an inch tall and 3/4" wide, but doesn't really seem to fit into anything other than the grommets there.... IDK.
2009-03-01 15:19:34
#26
Originally Posted by star-bucks
My front holes got all messed up to. All I did was drill through the frame rail and just use a nut, bolt, and a big washers and it work perfect. It still holding up after like 2 years.


Same here. 3 years as of next month.
2010-08-04 12:58:29
#27
http://www.sr20forum.com/general-sr20/54175-well-after-few-stripped-bolts-one-cross-threaded.html

http://www.sr20forum.com/general-sr20/73757-stripped-crossmember.html

^Source threads.

I got 3 of the 4 bolts to go in with no problem, but these bolts do s*ck. The one on the driver side in the rear will not go in. I most of cross threaded the hole. So I need to tap it with a bigger size? From what I'm reading, the fronts are designed in a way to where the insert could possibly break loose from the inside with the bolt? WTF?



^Got this from google. Is this what I need to get? Anything else? Can I get it from Advance?
2010-08-04 13:06:46
#28
I don't think Helicoil is the way to go. Look up Time-sert.

Originally Posted by MR-4Door-SR20DET
Can I get it from Advance?
Not from what I've seen. Napa had Helicoil I think, not sure anyone will have Time-sert?
2010-08-04 14:29:47
#29
I would not try to heli-coil this, not in that place. Helicoil has limits on strength of the threads. I would try to tap new threads in place first, even if it means going with maybe a more coarse thread pitch than you had before, i.e. same diameter bolt, but fewer threads per inch.

Problem is heli-coil is only going to be as strong as those springs, which require that you tap the hole anyway with a coarse threaded tool, that's what keeps the coil in place. If you can do that, why not just tap it for a larger bolt or better, one with a deeper and larger thread pattern?

Whatever the current threads are, go one step coarser, get a t-handle style tap, some cutting oil, try that first. Helicoil for me would be last resort.

Yes the fronts have some potential to bust loose inside, they thread into a small block of metal welded onto the inside of the radiator support.

My U13 had a sand/salt trap there and rusted through just in that area, you can see what you're threading into up front is not amazingly robust. I had to cut out the entire radiator support, removing all the spot welds, get a new one, etc.

Good idea to regularly blast this area out from underneath when you clean the car, make sure it drains even if you're not in the Rust Belt. I took very good care of this car but this one area wasn't getting clean, live and learn. Royal PITA job to replace and body shop quote was about $1800, so I tackled it myself instead.

2010-08-04 14:47:24
#30
Originally Posted by BenFenner
I don't think Helicoil is the way to go. Look up Time-sert.

Not from what I've seen. Napa had Helicoil I think, not sure anyone will have Time-sert?


Do not have to look too far - there's a link half a dozen posts up already.

Originally Posted by SHAWNATGERBROCK
You could probably buy the kit for less than shipping back and forth ...

10x1.25 Kit with inserts $76.00 .....Time-Sert Metric Thread Repair Kits
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