Thread: very poor idle/high temps

i finally finished my project and timed it today to take out on her first day hitting the pavement. shes built for boost, cams, fidanza, list of other parts.
i timed it to close to or as close to 15* as i could do. in that, and from searching the forum, i attempted to set idle as well before plugging back in the TPS. i fully opened and closed the idle screw in both directions. in doing so, the idle stayed the same. the beast is running s4's, which make idleing fun enough. should i just say screw it and set my idle in my realtime program? other than needing a wideband to tune it better, and poppin IC couplers left and right, she runs great except for the inconsistant idle. at red lights and stop signs she either dies, or gets choppy then smooths out. ideas? shes also overheating like a MF. not overheating, but just getting very warm. my temp gauge inst hooked up, so all i have is the cluster gauge. it sees 3/4 temps often. i dont like that. im running a koyo with slimfans as pushers mounted on the front. also the nismo 149* therm. if anything i figured shed run cool as a cucumber.

My old boosted B14 had similar problems like yours. I changed Coolant Temp Sensor, TPS, PCV, MAF and IACV. Eventually it ended up been the knock sensor and a bit of tuning before it was running like new again

Make sure there is no air in the coolant lines. Do a real good cooling sysrem purge. Make sure the pusher fans actually push (and not pull; believe me, it happens). Also add more airflow underhood by removing the rubber strip near the bulkead, this will create a positive airflow, that lowers temps with approx. 5 C. Use water wetter. Some folks install an oil cooler too, to further improve healthy temps.

it has the oem style det oil cooler...that doesnt have a "rad" though. that is on the future mods list. coolant system is free of air. the fans do in fact push i am thinking of some sort of air dam around the grill...possibly building some sort of fan shroud. if shes getting warm now, i am worried what will happen come spring/summer.

Go ahead and set the idle at 950 in rt. those s4s need to have oil while you are figuring this out.

Verify cooling sensors are usdm.

The factory gauge has 3 readings. cold, ok, and too hot. get your aftermarket gauge hooked up.

Jack it up and belch it with a funnel from the radiator. Just for good measure.

you can get the good ic clamps for $2 each at NAPA.

Borrow a wideband for an hour and have a peek to make sure.

i still cant figure out the cold "no" idle. calum is supposed to call me later to help me make some adjustments in some odd looking settings in tuner pro. i am thinking it is a jdm sensor now that i rigged my gauge today. she only climbs higher than 170* when i turn off the fans while at an idle. the fans are on a switch. other than that shes between 160 and 170 i got the good clamps to replace the crappy ones. no pop off yet my buddy offered to let my borrow his wideband.....so all is well! other than it snowed yesterday and the roads were salted. shes done for the winter now

good going. You can sneak out a few times man c'mon.

apparently the idle may be related to "the cold idle valve?" i have to investigate this further.........hehehe, i may sneak out a few times