Thread: Are there any RWD converted B-chassis?

Our engines actually sit in front of the front axle which probably contributes to some of our handling challenges.

I remember when you went to UCF and killed your ve and swapped to the 3.5. If you want to do something first then stay with the 3.5l and collect all the awd parts from overseas. An AWD b14 se-l 3.5l would be way cooler. The parts are out there to make this happen, if I had more time I would be doing it but with I'm booked so I have to stick to my vet 6spd setup for now.

If over 50% of the mass of the engine is in front of the front axle, it is front-engined. If over 50% of the engine mass is between the axles, it is mid-engined. If over 50% of the mass of the engine is behind the rear axle it is rear-engined.

Modern Corvettes, Honda S2k, and a few others are mid-engined, and usually called "front mid-engined" to better describe them.




For the rear end, I'd always considered grabbing a rear GTi-R clip. That way you get the fuel tank with the pass-through, the entire rear subframe and suspension. The rear diff, halfshafts, and everything. It won't bolt right up I don't think, but it's a nice starting point.
Although I've heard the S13 rear is only 20mm wider than the B13 and it might work just as well. If it does, that would be easier than finding GTi-R stuff. You'll still need to figure out a fuel tank. I like the OEM solution (GTi-R) best versus a fuel cell.

It does keep it simpler, but taking all that weight off the front could make it handle squirrely. You basically have a completely empty engine bay up front, no weight on the front wheels, especially while accelerating. I'd be worried about the front end lifting at higher speeds.


All FWD cars will have this problem. You're front heavy and you have the front wheels dealing with acceleration, turning, and weight. Front engine, RWD cars have the best possibility of getting a 50/50 weight distribution, because most of the weight is between the wheels, and certain items, like the battery can go in the trunk.


AWD is the most feasible setup, because the engine would most likely remain mounted the way it is. Finding M/T AWD parts is the issue, if they even exist. The only AWD 3.5s that I know of (like the Murano) are only available in Automatic or CVT. Trucks, like the pathfinder and Frontier are 4WD, which is not optimal.

Also, I'm not necessarily interested in pure traction, I just want it to be ridiculous. When the front wheels spin, you're just making heat. When the back wheels spin, you're having fun.

Look into the xtrail desiel 6spd manual awd trans. That trans is the same as the US 6spd but the bell housing is different. I'm sure an adaptor can be made as long as the engine block clears the tcase. The xtrail rear subframe and diff is easy to get and not a bad price. It has a bilt in electronic clutch pack style locker for engaugment. The guys in Aus mod the diff and awd systems a ton so the parts exist. Check out eBay for the trans and rear drive train it can all be had for 1k$ or less if you hunt. I wish I had more time because now I'm older and have $$ and this is a possible conversion.

A setup like this could be fwd then awd at the flip of a switch. Pair that with a built turbo 3.5l and your talking about a car no one will see coming.

How much fun would it be to do a fwd burn out then lock the rear and rip it out of the hole awd.

Thats not a bad idea with the diesel transmission. Although the gear ratios are a lot different. http://www.nissan.com.au/~/media/Files/Brochures/Specifications/T31-X-TRAIL-Specification.ashx

The case is the same as the spec v 6spd so you have lots of gear options but the 4.4 FD is good for awd. The x trail 2.5l petrol also had a 6spd awd option. What is the difference between the 3.5 6spd and the 2.5 6spd if any?

I think thats my new sig!

Your issue is going to be the rear beam, you will have to do a custom IRS, trunk lift & gas tank lift to fit the differential in there.

B13 or P10 is the way to go if you go RWD.



Now as for traction issues on FWD, is it really that much more torque then a small turbo setup? Having solid bushings for front lower control arm rearward placement goes a long way to help with traction.