Thread: HOW TO: P11/B15 transmission swap into a B13/B14/P10

A few things about this swap:
1. When wiring the switches, I used and matched up at least ONE of the wires with what was on the chassis itself. So for one, I matched up the two black wires, on the other I matched up the green/yellow wire. Figured that at least one of the wires would be consistent, and they were. So just a heads up about that.
2. The tap that is used/needed for the trans bracket is NOT an M10-1.25!! It's a M10x1.5 That should be edited by the original poster.
3. When cutting the shifter stabilizer so the shifter rod doesn't bind on it, be aware that the shifter in the car will have more free play. I am going to go with this as a way to gain some of that positive feel back: CHEAP alternative to shifter stabilizer bracket - SR20 Forum

I hope this helps out all those in the future doing this upgrade.

Why isn't the original post getting updated with this info? Mods!

Also, this how-to needs to include that to get those roll pins out you need a punch set. We wasted about 2 hours driving around trying to find this set(after trying with screw drivers and other misc things). Harbor Freight ended up having a set. Sears would have it also.

Here it is at harbor freight and what they look like:

http://www.harborfreight.com/8-piece-punch-set-93424.html


Also, it was unclear if we needed to grind down the bracket thing that's on the tranny or the shift stabilizer bracket and it's the shift stabilizer bracket and not the bracket on the tranny. Only thing needing grinding on the tranny is for the clutch arm stuff(and there's really nothing ground on the tranny itself, it's the cable arm). If you're grinding anything on the tranny except the clutch cable arm you're doing something wrong.

Other than the grinding and the punch tool, the swap is pretty smooth. I think we could have done it in half the time if done over and with the right info.

-G

I remember a round metal bushing being around the bottom part of the arm of the B15. It came off when we removed the arm, but that didn't help the B13 clutch arm to go in the hole. We still had to grind to get it in....unless there were 2 bushings?

-G

sirs,

I would like to ask for your patience since im newbie here, I have some questions with this swap.

1. Speedo Sensors - since P11 got electronic one, can we just use it instead of the mechanical one, that is if we are going to use electronic cluster gauge to match the electronic speed sensors, can this be match with the NX digital cluster gauge?

2. Clutch - i understand that P11 got hydraulic clutch, can we just use this one instead of the cable clutch (my b13 is cable type clutch)?

3. Axle - since we are going to use the P11 tranny, does this mean that the axle of P11 and B13 is the same??? Is the P11 tranny LSD or not?

Thank you.

Hers a link to some info on the sensors/switches
http://www.sr20-forum.com/general-sr20/55638-tranny-switches.html

Bumping an old thread. Has anyone gotten the sleeve out without a slide hammer? Also, can someone explain how to do this with a slide hammer? I tried screwdriver and screwdriver + heat and I can't get it to come out. Also, i am assuming this is a sleeve just like in a P11 trans.

by sleeve do you mean that bushing thing inside the hole for the clutch arm?? How about a socket that's a little smaller then the hole and a hammer to punch it out?

I guess i could try that. I just wanted to see if i could get it out before grinding the rod.

Not sure why but my shifter sat way higher in reference to the stabilizer bracket and still binds after cutting half the bracket and beginning to grind the stabilizer bracket. Maybe something is bent? Solid front dogbone and all prothanes.

Anyone have problems getting the shift linkage to clear the front sway bar when using a P11 RS5F70V trans?

Vehicle is a 97 B14 GXE Auto

Converted to SR20 using a B14 53J block
Converted to Manual using a P11 RS5F70V trans

Shift linkage is from a 95 XE

Front Sway bar is Suspension Techniques

Any help is greatly appreciated.