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Thread: Knock sensor code 34.

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Posts: 21-30 of 35
2008-10-06 12:09:08
#21
Originally Posted by speedyd718
heres the schematic i was reading. you're right vadim i the oem connector was one wire shielded. and the shielding is the ground (once it hits the other end of the connector it splits maybe?). but i'm not using the oem connector i'm using a random unused plug with the same plug. so i think that may be my issue. i'm going try running a ground from my unused sensor prong to the intake ground and see what happens.



edit- fixed links


Hmm interesting, so the other prong on the Knock Sensor, the unused prong, is technically ground. I wonder if running a wire to it then to the intake manifold would improve anything
2008-10-07 23:17:42
#22
well anyone have any ideas as to why the ecu is only putting out 3.3V? i replaced everything (signal & ground wires and sensor), and i'm still getting the instantaneous code. i don't get it.

is there any way to completely disable the sensor altogether? this is driving me crazy knowing that the car is running at its optimum. help!
2008-10-08 00:29:48
#23
Yea because you most likely have a short to ground. If you can de-pin the knock sensor signal wire at the ECU and I bet you will recieve 5v.

But

I just re-read and you said you replaced wiring, did you replace it from the ECU to the end of the harness in the engine bay? If not then do what I said just above.
2008-10-08 00:35:50
#24
^ i haven't tried de-pinning the actual ecu pin. i am using about 2" of the pinned wire and then new wire straight to the connector on the sensor. i guess i'll try pulling out ecu pin and see what i find.

if i do find 5V then how do i go about putting a pin in the harness?
2008-10-08 00:39:05
#25
Nevermind then if you actually cut the signal wire 2" out from the ECU, thats basically the same as depinning it, unless you have a short to ground with that 2" from the ECU which I doubt.
2008-10-08 02:49:39
#26
yeah thats what i can't figure out. i won't bother screwing with the harness then, i don't want to ruin it. this is igging me to all heck.
2008-10-08 12:53:39
#27
look up the knock sensor for a subaru. they are the same thing and they cost tons less. They come with a special little pigtail harness that you can use or get rid of and it plugs in like stock.
2008-10-08 13:29:14
#28
Still not as low as these prices:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250302623400&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:Watchlink:middle:us
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OE-knock-sensor-300ZX-240SX-200SX-19911992-1993-1998_W0QQitemZ350096976026QQihZ022QQcategoryZ33659QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem
2008-10-08 14:47:01
#29
You don't get a CEL, right? I'd just ignore it, if you have no light. I know with my Calum, the code always trips because of the cams, but it doesn't actually affect the running condition of the motor. Short of just running a resistor at the harness connector, I gave up. I'll try the resistor method once I get my hands back on the car.

Oh, and good morning from phoenix!
2008-10-08 14:54:14
#30
no i don't get a physical cel, just the stored code (sorry for that confusion). it was my understanding though that the ecu isn't running optimum though if the code is there. it's running in a "safe" mode so to speak, because it thinks something is fubar with the circuit.
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