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Thread: So many broken parts so little time

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2018-05-26 09:51:33
So many broken parts so little time
Quick question, I'm working in a small single car garage with a shitty jack. I gotta remove broken studs from manifold to turbo, is removing the turbo the easiest way to go about putting in new studs and gaskets? Really at a loss cause biggest race of the year is gonna be 1 week after I get my parts in. And are oem style studs gonna be the right thread for a t28 turbo? Thanks in advance guys.
2018-05-26 09:56:35
Welcome to the forum.

I would think the easiest thing to do is to keep the turbo and exhaust manifold where they are. If you can get to the nuts for that flange, I would remove the nuts, and then back out the studs one-at-a-time while replacing them with new studs, all while keeping everything attached. I've not done this before, but it seems like the first thing I'd try. You may have to remove a few other little things, and you'll likely be working from below.

Here's an image from my build thread to help see what we're talking about.

Last edited by BenFenner on 2018-05-26 at 10-00-06.
2018-05-26 10:02:35
I'm seeing now that the CHRA and water lines can be in the way of some of the hardware. You may have to remove the turbo. And I'm just now seeing that you want to replace the gasket too. So yah, obviously you'll need to remove the turbo to replace the gasket. Sorry, I don't think there's any way around that.
You could probably get away with keeping both oil lines and the rear water lines attached, depending on how tight things are.
2018-05-26 12:32:55
Yeah the oil lines are my main problem,the bolts to the drain are blocked by the solid line to the oil feed. All the nuts backed out hence 4 broken studs.i decided the easiest way to remove it is taking the downpipe out with it,but thats not going super hot at the moment. Can i remove the turbo oil drain pipe from the block or will i be losing a lot of oil with that? My apt is super strict on it,im not aupposed ro work on it at all haha.
And if it helps this is in an s13 chassis, probably shouldve specified beforehand
2018-05-26 13:45:13
S13 chassis is a different story, sorry for making assumptions.

If it looks like you can get the turbo oil drain off of the block, then doing so should not cause any oil loss. You may have a little oil drip out, then stop. The oil drain connects above the oil level in the block, so you're good there. Assuming a normal RWD turbo setup.

Last edited by BenFenner on 2018-05-26 at 13-49-49.
2018-05-28 09:57:28
Yeah,its a normal rwd setup, motor and trans from an s14. Thanks for clearing up it if was above or below nirmal level,i could not for the life of me find out if it was or not
2018-05-28 11:37:52
Yep, 100% it drains well above the natural oil level. No problem there. I hope it goes well and the apartment brass doesn't give you much trouble. I've done a rod bearing replacement before in a similar situation. =P
2018-05-28 22:45:50
Ran into another issue i hope you can help me with. I was unaware that my turbo is watwrcooled aswell and ran into a problem with leaking collant everywhete when i removed what i thiught was the oil fees banjo bolt. Any suggestiona on how to removw rhat without draining my whole coolant system?
2018-05-29 07:46:43
First off, no automotive turbocharger is water cooled (they are all oil cooled). Some are water jacketed, but there is a difference.

Either way, there is no real way to avoid draining a bunch of coolant. You're probably well past this point now, but you could loosen one of the water jacket lines and let it drain coolant until it stops, then proceed removing the turbo. It will probably drain half of your coolant. When you're all done, put the coolant back (filter it through a paper towel?) or replace it with fresh stuff.

Sorry, there's no way around this part.
Last edited by BenFenner on 2018-05-29 at 20-05-38.
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