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Thread: Wrapping the downpipe

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Posts: 11-20 of 27
2016-07-22 23:35:40
#11
Originally Posted by eggman
.In FL every little thing helps..



It has been 96-100F here the past few days and no signs of stopping.. I can handle 90 but 100 is ridiculous for PA..

My temp needle starts to creep up if I sit idling for more than 10 minutes with the A/C on.. ugh..
Last edited by Storm88000 on 2016-07-22 at 23-37-01.
2016-07-23 00:47:04
#12
Originally Posted by Storm88000
Originally Posted by eggman
.In FL every little thing helps..



It has been 96-100F here the past few days and no signs of stopping.. I can handle 90 but 100 is ridiculous for PA..

My temp needle starts to creep up if I sit idling for more than 10 minutes with the A/C on.. ugh..


Time for another headgasket if you keep driving it without fixing the problem. Or let it idle for 25 minutes in your driveway. That is balls out insane.
2016-07-23 01:10:49
#13
Thanks, Doc.
2016-07-23 02:53:00
#14
What radiator and fan setup does the car have? Maybe a full aluminum or 2 pass radiator or a better fan setup might help?
2016-07-23 03:28:35
#15
Originally Posted by Y2KG20
What radiator and fan setup does the car have? Maybe a full aluminum or 2 pass radiator or a better fan setup might help?


I don't even know what car it is. Jay has a few and i surely cannot keep up. Which chassis is this for @eggman ?
2016-07-23 15:08:41
#16
I wrapped my mild steel downpipe (after painting), and do so on cars I build on a budget.

My one piece of advice is to think about the wrapping and how you can do it with the least clamps possible. On a straight pipe, I like to wrap with huge gaps to the other end, wrap around, and come back to the start while covering the gaps I left on the first pass and clamp only once at the end I started/finished. For my split downpipe again I managed to wrap it while only needing one clamp. While wrapping a header I can usually get away with using two clamps... Don't just wrap the brute force way. Think about eliminating clamps before wrapping. Make an actual wrap plan.




Last edited by BenFenner on 2016-07-26 at 01-48-01.
2016-07-23 17:18:31
#17
V-band 4 life!!!
2016-07-23 17:23:38
#18
Originally Posted by Y2KG20
What radiator and fan setup does the car have? Maybe a full aluminum or 2 pass radiator or a better fan setup might help?


Originally Posted by Kyle
Originally Posted by Y2KG20
What radiator and fan setup does the car have? Maybe a full aluminum or 2 pass radiator or a better fan setup might help?


I don't even know what car it is. Jay has a few and i surely cannot keep up. Which chassis is this for @eggman ?


Its my turbo nx.nothing crazy.
Lowport DE
18g Turbo
Avenir manifold w/ext gate added,
Mani and turbo backhousing is coated with Cerakote ceramic inside and out
Hot side piping,dump pipe,and AC lines are wrapped in titanium wrap(same as I want to use on the downpipe)
Koyo w/one pusher ,one puller slimfans.

I always cooled decent when cruising. its heatsoak sitting in traffic lowered down onto FL Lava pavement in the summer that gets scary.
You cant touch the dipstick,or anything else under the hood after driving it.
2016-07-23 17:28:12
#19
Originally Posted by Boostlee
Originally Posted by eggman
Originally Posted by Boostlee
Don't ever run hood spacers is the one advice I have as heat management handling has already been addressed.

The cowl is a high pressure zone.


I have heard both sides of this....more than one person in SouthFL with turbo cars has told me to run spacers.Its Africa-Hot in South FL ...LOL

....I know the underhood area is a highpressure area but what about cowl induction hoods and hoods with vents like an EVO or something like a Invader type vented hood?(not that I would run one.LOL)

Wouldnt those hoods go against the whole concept?

thanks


Nope! The issue is, it impedes air exhausting from the engine bay. Now you are TRAPPING air in the engine bay.

Do as you folks please. Cowl induction serves an entirely different purpose and typically, they are sealed off from engine bay air.

Also, Evo vents are not even remotely close in function like cowl induction or hood spacers. They are louvered and promote exhaust by redirecting airflow. With this redirection, it leaves a low pressure area underneath the wake and promotes the high temp (which means high pressure; simple gas law) air rushing to the low pressure area.

Do a little research instead of listening to people. No fully functioning race car apart from hard parkers and wanna be dragsters run hood spacers lol!


Thanks for your input.I appreciate the info
Definately gonna wrap the downpipe and see what sort of vent for the hood I can come up with.
For the record...I would never run the hood spacers even if it actually made a difference
2016-07-29 14:28:19
#20
egg....
i used to face the same problem. i was using FMIC from S13. i had engine temp going up in traffic jams and humid aircond. the problem is the FMIC blocking ventilation to ur radiator n aircond condenser. i switched to PULSAR gtir TMIC now. all problem solved !
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