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Thread: Drill drill t3 snap eff.

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2014-09-16 23:01:14
Drill drill t3 snap eff.
As many of you know, I'm still trying to get things working on the setup I bought from chappy that went sour. The exhaust housing for the t3 had a sheared bolt when I bought it. I tried drill/easy out, but my easy out snapped in the meantime, filling the hole and rendering the damned thing unusable.

Does anyone have any suggestions? Pretty frustrated.
Last edited by canx2k on 2014-09-16 at 23-24-38.
2014-09-16 23:23:00
Re: Drill drill t3 snap eff.
Problem number two. If I use the other exhaust housing, even with a vband to 4 bolt adaptor, I'm not sure if there's enough clearance to make it work.

2014-09-16 23:23:34
Of course I'd have to cut a tube to make it line up as well.
2014-09-16 23:24:17
Assuming the exhaust even lines up after I get the adaptor haha ....sheeeaaat
2014-09-16 23:45:17
Man, you guys need a welder when this happens! I'm a licensed mechanic by trade and all I do is weld a small "tit" on the top. Do this over and over till you have a nipple Then grab some vise grips and it will unscrew easy peasy. The heat breaks it loose and with the tit/nipple you got something to grab and unthread it. Drilling always goes off center even with a center punch and easy outs etc... always break because the bolts still stuck/rusted in the hole. So why is it going to come out now? It usually doesn't.

The welder is the easiest and best method. Even if the bolt is in aluminum. I do this also when extracting studs/bolts when doing cracked/warped manifold jobs
2014-09-17 02:07:14
Tbh there was no sticking out part to weld anything onto.
2014-09-17 02:10:28
drill out the bit and redrill for helicoil?
2014-09-17 03:35:26
Try using a carbide burr for a dremel tool to remove the easy out and the remaining bolt. The carbide tool (Dremel PN 9955) should be harder than the easy out and the bolt material and will remove material from them. In the past, I have used this tool to hollow out the center of stuck bolts and easy outs. Then I used a punch to collapse the stuck parts in on themselves. After they collapse, you should be able to pull them out with out doing to much damage to the original threads. Or, I used another easy out to pull out the broken easy out after boring through it. Grab a few of them though, they are tiny...the ball end dia. is .100" i think.

PS, run high temp anti-seize w/ copper on all the hot parts hardware next time
2014-09-17 11:12:36
I ran anti seize this time too haha thanks for the info. I'll go pick one up today!
2014-09-17 12:18:50
This really is a job for a machine shop. They can get this done very quickly. Otherwise haulin200sx gave the right solution. Its a pain learning how to do it, but once you are successful you will know the tricks to make it and easy process in the future.
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