Thread: Turbo compatibility, please help... I searched.

Here it is...
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1475148212743314&l=691e5fed4f

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1475148239409978&l=a6e2d41394

It has a p/n tag on it, I looked it up before, I'b pretty positive it's a T25 off an 89 300z. I wasn't trying to identify what I have as much as what I can replace it with and still utilize my current header, connections, etc.

SIDE NOTE:

So 2 weeks ago I had 3" exhaust installed, turbo back, currently pipe only till I decide on a muffler, cutout or not, etc. Well it's been a nightmare since. FIRST I found out the next day this old turbo oil seals are leaking (hence this thread)

LAST NIGHT I heard an exhaust leak when I left dinner, louder n louder in the next few miles, I stop to have a look... DAMN header literally tore open where the 4 tubes collect into the flange that bolts to the turbo.

The damn exhaust place ASSURED me that I would not need the flex joint (that the old system had) I paused him and I questioned, ARE YOU SURE because look... I have a titanium header, with out the flex joint ALL THAT "flex" will be forced onto my header. 2 weeks FML the header is wacked... I am taking it to them today after typing this, I talked to the manager, we'll see what happens.

QUESTION:

I have a cast gtir manifold, so I have heard mixed opinions about headers vs manifolds... where is the line drawn, meaning should I just run the manifold?

Yep that's a t25, so any t25 will fit. Any t2 tubo will bolt up to the manifold but watch for fitment due to block clearence. The down pipe should haves flex pipe and that manifold does not look like its made out of titanium, who told you it was? Looks like a cheapo eBay manifold to me.

To to follow up, the p/n tag says it's the following...

Garrett - Nissan - 1990 - 300ZX - 3.0L - V6 - twin turbo R/H - 300hp - TB221 - 466135-0001 - p/n 1441140P01

Still a T25?

Yes that's a t25 and you can use a Nissan t25 in its place. That turbo also has coolent lines and you should be running coolent to the turbo to keep it in good shape.

I searched and it seems like this is a decent turbo to pair up to our motors... but I wondered if any of you know if this turbo will clear the block mated to a GTI-R manifold?

GARRETT GT2560R T28 A/R60

It should ...the ones that normally have problems are in the GT2876r and some gt2871r turbos.

yea it should.... but u should just buy my turbo kit for 1000

OH MY GOSH I wanna bang my head against the wall lol

Sorry, got more questions now as I also reply lol.... so first thank you for your responses and assistance, and DxPxE I sorta do not need a "Kit" I have everything I "need" I guess depending not if I got a B.A.T but I do not plan to. What I DID decide to do is below but here is lil of my current info set up... I am on a base map for the T25, have old school "chip" type ecu I plan to upgrade with Nistune (or similar, Opinions??), I am also on 370cc injectors, FMIC, and 3" exhaust, turbo back... pipe and O2 sensors only. So before I go "bigger" I'd like to upgrade some things first.

BUT UNTIL THEN, this is what I AM doing HOPEFULLY this afternoon (Wed 10/29) so hopefully you all see this before that, cause I would really like experienced opinions about the following...

My Current and "bad" turbo is a 14411-40P01
WHICH I just yesterday realized, and in looking IT up... EVERYONE seems to agree, IT's A REAL POS and more suited for a small motorcycle... Although I will say I dunno if I would agree it's bad as they describe here... searching for flow map - Honda-Tech because my lil 96 200sx SE-R... HAULS ASS lol

So yesterday bought a good used 14411-50F00 which came off a 240 SR20DET, is in really nice shape, I got it for $100 WITH a down Pipe and 02 sensor which seemed like a fair price... so I'm slapping it on at least for now, (Reason being is because my oil seal is leaking SO bad now that literally I need to stop driving it)

So a question I have is this, are there ANY reasons to consider swapping the old .48 for the .80 compressor housing (Pretty sure compressor is the intake side, right?) cause I would need to reclock .80 the housing anyways, meaning I will have to take it off to drill and tap the rear of compressor to mount the Actuator back on. Matter of fact IF the .48 housing is a better choice I'd probably not even have to tap it as it could be clocked as my bad turbo is now. {I totally am capable of taping, own a set of taps even so that NBD at all) the AR 80 housing would be better, correct?

Anyways, guess why I ask is because I see people have switched other housings around n such, just dunno what determines that exactly, I mean I know it's about the volume of air it can blow, so I assume between housing size and wheel size there is an "optimal" combo... just dunno how to find out what combos work and so on. So for a SR20DE+T that is driven and raced hard, should I just reclock the newer T25 and mount it all up, or is there any benefit to combining anything from one of these to the other?

Thank you