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Thread: Torque steer - which way does your car go?

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Posts: 11-20 of 31
2014-08-04 16:25:39
#11
Originally Posted by niSSSdan
Originally Posted by ebinkerd
Have you always had that steering wheel vibration? You should check the axle nut torque and verify the washer and castle lock cap is installed. With boost, it is easy for that nut to loosen if all the components are not there.


Nope, only since the new shaft. Washer is on, nut is on and done tight, I just used a breaker bar not a torque wrench. What is the torque spec anyways? Like a million ft/lb? Haha.
Split pin is through but I don't have a castle lock cap. Should probably just tax one from a wreckers.


@ebinkerd speaks from experience. Heres a pic of what happens if the washer and castle nut is not there...it will eat the cotterpin eventually from torque,and start to loosen anyway leaving slop.....as for the nut. I stand on it with a breaker bar and I weigh 135.
Last edited by eggman on 2014-08-04 at 16-26-43.
2014-08-04 16:43:50
#12
Originally Posted by niSSSdan
Originally Posted by ebinkerd
Have you always had that steering wheel vibration? You should check the axle nut torque and verify the washer and castle lock cap is installed. With boost, it is easy for that nut to loosen if all the components are not there.


Nope, only since the new shaft. Washer is on, nut is on and done tight, I just used a breaker bar not a torque wrench. What is the torque spec anyways? Like a million ft/lb? Haha.
Split pin is through but I don't have a castle lock cap. Should probably just tax one from a wreckers.


Originally Posted by eggman
Originally Posted by niSSSdan
Originally Posted by ebinkerd
Have you always had that steering wheel vibration? You should check the axle nut torque and verify the washer and castle lock cap is installed. With boost, it is easy for that nut to loosen if all the components are not there.


Nope, only since the new shaft. Washer is on, nut is on and done tight, I just used a breaker bar not a torque wrench. What is the torque spec anyways? Like a million ft/lb? Haha.
Split pin is through but I don't have a castle lock cap. Should probably just tax one from a wreckers.


@ebinkerd speaks from experience. Heres a pic of what happens if the washer and castle nut is not there...it will eat the cotterpin eventually from torque,and start to loosen anyway leaving slop.....as for the nut. I stand on it with a breaker bar and I weigh 135.


FSM quoted 145 - 202 ft-lb. of torque for the axle nut.
2014-08-04 17:33:51
#13
If you unbolted strut from the knuckle while changing axle, then your wheel alignment (@sss4me thanks, its called geometry in my native language haha) is definately off. Id start with this and see if it helps.
2014-08-05 10:16:37
#14
Originally Posted by gomba
LSD issues?

My car seems to pull pretty much straight but may 'skate' anywhere. Definitely have to pay attention. I can't say it pulls to one side every time or even pulls to a side at all. I think it depends on the road conditions more than anything.

-G


No LSD haha. Dem open diff single peggas lol.
Thanks though man.

Originally Posted by enohand

does the new shaft have that rubber insulator in the middle like a OEM one does? that def. seems to help//
I swap one on everytime i get a axle without it


No it does not! I noticed that immediately. In what way do you think it helps?
There's no way I could swap one on anyways, new shaft is way fatter than the old one.

Originally Posted by eggman

@ebinkerd speaks from experience. Heres a pic of what happens if the washer and castle nut is not there...it will eat the cotterpin eventually from torque,and start to loosen anyway leaving slop.....as for the nut. I stand on it with a breaker bar and I weigh 135.


OK well I'll pop the centre cap off tonight and check if the nut has worked loose. Thanks man.

Originally Posted by Kyle

FSM quoted 145 - 202 ft-lb. of torque for the axle nut.


PERFECT! Thanks Kyle

Originally Posted by jagy
If you unbolted strut from the knuckle while changing axle, then your wheel alignment (@sss4me thanks, its called geometry in my native language haha) is definately off. Id start with this and see if it helps.


Nah the strut bolts didn't get touched. Only LCA and steering arm ball joints.
I still feel like the alignment is out though, so I will get it checked.
2014-08-05 13:14:11
#15
OK just went and checked the driveshaft nut, it certainly couldn't be loosened by hand!

So I think the issue may be more related to the shaft weight or some other difference...or just torque steer.
Everyone goes left?
2014-08-05 13:19:31
#16
Alignment and the fact that you have no LSD.

With a B15 gearbox, 225 Azenis and 340WHP with new alignment and it pulled straight as an arrow (0 degrees/0 inches of toe in front and about 2 degrees of negative camber). The only time it ever pulled to either side (and only slightly so) was when the road had serious uneveness or the road was wet and had varying levels of grip between the front tires.
Last edited by Boostlee on 2014-08-05 at 13-23-09.
2014-08-05 14:47:39
#17
Originally Posted by niSSSdan
Originally Posted by gomba
LSD issues?

My car seems to pull pretty much straight but may 'skate' anywhere. Definitely have to pay attention. I can't say it pulls to one side every time or even pulls to a side at all. I think it depends on the road conditions more than anything.

-G


No LSD haha. Dem open diff single peggas lol.
Thanks though man.


Ehhh that's even worse! No LSD means only 1 wheel will be spinning and is probably why your car torque steers to one side!!

Originally Posted by Boostlee
Alignment and the fact that you have no LSD.

With a B15 gearbox, 225 Azenis and 340WHP with new alignment and it pulled straight as an arrow (0 degrees/0 inches of toe in front and about 2 degrees of negative camber). The only time it ever pulled to either side (and only slightly so) was when the road had serious uneveness or the road was wet and had varying levels of grip between the front tires.


My experience as well.


-G
Last edited by gomba on 2014-08-05 at 14-50-11.
2014-08-05 14:57:00
#18
Bushings bushings bushings. Rear LCA bushing goes a long way to make it pull straight, if you have one side that is more eaten then the other, it will pull that side. Also worn shocks & springs, but alignment too.
2014-08-05 15:18:11
#19
Agreed with Vadim.

I made my statements under the assumption you had the mechanicals sorted.

Either way, you don't have a LSD, so I have a feeling if you sort out all the mechanicals, it will still pull to one side simply due to varying mechanical grip.
2014-08-05 20:51:16
#20
Originally Posted by niSSSdan

Nah the strut bolts didn't get touched. Only LCA and steering arm ball joints.
I still feel like the alignment is out though, so I will get it checked.


Here you go...
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