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Thread: Popping and backfiring after IACV/AAC VALVE replacement

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Posts: 31-40 of 43
2014-07-13 19:24:09
#31
Originally Posted by se200
Ok but spark color is not 100% definitive of spark issues. These cars are know for having weak spark at high hp. The car should idle even with weak spark, your going to spend money buying new parts when you could spend an hour if your time swapping the old parts back in. This would be a free way to confirm it's not the iacv/AAC. It's your car and your money but tossing parts at it may not by the best option. I'm not the only person that said try the old parts first and you have ignored that this entire time, I hope your correct and the new parts fix your issue but if they don't please try using the advice given by a few of us. Good luck.



im not ignoring anyone, i am taking all advice in.

i changed out the iacv and aac valve, i went to the yard and got another distributor (but thats not to say that distributor was good either) i dont have alot of spare parts as this car has never given me any issues so i only have the new parts i put on and the old ones which didnt make a difference.

when cranking over the engine it doesnt even want to catch it doesnt want to even try to start not even a almost started.

and i am with you, i dont like to just throw money at a car and hope it fixes the problem.

ive checked for boost leaks
ive checked vacuum lines
ive checked compression
ive checked spark at coil
ive checked spark at distributor
ive swapped out new iacv for old iacv
ive swapped out new aac valve for old aac valve
ive checked AIT is working
ive checked Coolant temp sensor is working
ive checked Map sensor is working
ive checked stat's sync is coming on when cranking
ive checked stat cranking is on when cranking
ive checked fuel pump is priming
ive put enough gas in the car
ive checked fuel pressure
ive checked fuel pressure holds rate
ive checked pulse rates are even in aem pro
ive checked all connections
ive checked all fuses inside the car
ive checked all fuses under the hood
ive checked connection at engine bay for battery (batt relocated)
ive checked all couplers
ive checked all clamps
ive checked all intercooler piping


i did all this before coming here and asking any questions i am no new chicken to this, this car is very simple ive done my homework before seeing if anyone else has any suggestions i havent tried

does anyone know the process for checking the ignition ignitor chip? i have found the sr20det 240sx how to but not the sr20de?
Last edited by GT2871RBLUBIRD on 2014-07-13 at 19-28-36.
2014-07-13 19:38:14
#32
Whats the cranking advance?
2014-07-13 20:44:17
#33
Originally Posted by unijabnx2000
Whats the cranking advance?


10.7 Degree
2014-07-14 19:11:12
#34
Originally Posted by GT2871RBLUBIRD
Originally Posted by unijabnx2000
Whats the cranking advance?


10.7 Degree




my timing doest look off of course this isnt TDC however the timing marks line up correctly with corrasponding links 11 links or 22 rollers
2014-07-15 21:06:40
#35
Originally Posted by GT2871RBLUBIRD
Originally Posted by unijabnx2000
Whats the cranking advance?


10.7 Degree


try to see if 10.07 helps any.
2014-07-16 12:44:25
#36
Originally Posted by unijabnx2000
Originally Posted by GT2871RBLUBIRD
Originally Posted by unijabnx2000
Whats the cranking advance?


10.7 Degree


try to see if 10.07 helps any.


It already is at 10.7

I checked my crankshaft markings but I'm running the unorthodox pulley and unsure what degrees the timing marks are and I don't remember what it was originally set to. So that kind of doesn't help anything.

It's at the 4th notch on the pulley with exhaust cam at 12 o clock and intake cam at 10 o clock or what ever the factory timing check calls for I really don't think my timing is off though.
2014-07-16 13:03:33
#37
I'm at a crux I have 2 options.

1. Take the car to the shop I use they charge $95.00 a hour and hope they can find the problem with in 3 hours. This would be $300.00 and only know what's wrong not actually fixing it.

2. I can buy a new distributor, plug wires,Distributor cap, rotor button,Spark plugs, ignition control module and coil all brand new that about $374.00 but not sure it will fix the problem.

However I have gone over everything and the spark is weak and orange it's really thin and to even get a spark with a screw driver to the strut bolt you have to hold it millimeters away to barely if any spark comes out. And that is not how spark should behave it should be white with a bluish tint and can be medium to thick spark....thin orange spark that is barely there isn't going to ignite any fuel at all.

Maybe the iacv and AAC valve needed replacing this was known.

But maybe I was having problems in disguise. The idle was fluctuatIng it wouldn't stay started hard start ect maybe the iacv and aac valve were just disguising another problem. This very well maybe true.

I mean regardless the iacv and AAC valve needed replaced just wondering if they could have been masking another problem and it seemed like that.....I donno

Some resistance testing

Msd 72 lb injectors 3 2.2ohms 1 2.1 ohm but they are 2 ohm injectors so it would seem thays within spec.

The ignition coil module measure 19.43k ohms

The coil measured 1.0 ohm (this don't seem right)
Last edited by GT2871RBLUBIRD on 2014-07-16 at 13-49-31. Reason: updating
2014-07-16 23:08:08
#38
Install old IACV if it changes... friend did same thing and it was backfiring badly. Got old IACV bad and its was ok... but we didnt found out what was the "real" problem behind this...
2014-07-16 23:28:11
#39
10.07 does not = 10.7

&


2014-07-17 14:38:03
#40
Originally Posted by jagy
Install old IACV if it changes... friend did same thing and it was backfiring badly. Got old IACV bad and its was ok... but we didnt found out what was the "real" problem behind this...


Was your friend getting weak spark also.
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