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Thread: Where do y'all source 12v for your wideband???

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Posts: 11-20 of 33
2014-03-23 05:03:43
#11
Or the issue could be with your injector battery offset, as you put more load on the alt the voltage can drop an u will use a different cell in your injector battery offset table..

This has cured issues for me or my friends a few times..
2014-03-23 06:21:23
#12
I'll try a new ground and if that doesn't help, Lynch, I'll ask you explain. I'm not quite sure what you mean.
2014-03-23 12:11:47
#13
I use the cig lighter 12v and a chassis ground with no issues.
2014-03-23 16:12:31
#14
BATTERY:
What battery are you using?
What is the CCA on the battery that you are using?
How old is the battery?
Have you performed a load test on the battery?

ALTERNATOR:
Are you using a B13/B14 or B15 alternator?
Have you performed a load test on the alternator?

Do your headlights dim when you turn the blower motor on?

Have you connected a volt meter to see if system voltage drops when you turn the blower motor or headlight on or when the radiator fans come on?
2014-03-24 03:28:28
#15
Fwiw I run a dedicated fused and switched line for the wideband. For ground its going to a ring terminal on a bolt connected to the bare metal under the center column.
2014-03-24 03:47:35
#16
fuse box
2014-03-24 13:35:01
#17
Totally ran outta time during the weekend, never even got to change oil in my truck (400 over is not like me!).
Thanks for all the suggestions, keep em coming :-) I always update and won't leave y'all hanging 👍
I'm going to first try grounding right to 1 of the 4 studs/nuts on the shifter column, then see what happens and o from there.

Those who wired to the fuse box where did you wire to? Did you remove and go from behind or plug an extension from under a fuse?
2014-03-24 14:20:30
#18
I 'tap' the fuse and solder a lead to it....
tap = grind small corner off to solder to it.

then I put an inline fuse on the lead.... unless the circuit isnt used, and then I just orient the fuse so the side going to the load is protected by the fuse itself.
Last edited by unijabnx2000 on 2014-03-24 at 20-11-01.
2014-03-24 22:45:23
#19
I had the same issue and ran a dedicated circuit, which I ended up doing one by one as I added more and more gauges, boost controller, etc. I am now going to run a thicker, probably 8AWG dedicated line to one of these to clean it all up.
http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Blade-Block/dp/B001P6FTHC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1395700495&sr=8-2&keywords=fuse+block

Ill have it run from the key switch to a relay
Amazon.com: 80 AMP RELAY 12 VOLTS: Automotive

I am still unsure of what size relay and max power I will actually need since I do not yet have everything and cannot calculate the total amperage.

If you plan on adding more in the future or think you might, I would look into this route.
2014-03-27 18:56:59
#20
Got out there today and reground to the chassis, also made this video showcasing a voltmeter. You'll see at the end of the video just exactly where I re-ground, under the plate for the shifter. The fans even came on just as I was at the voltmeter...any more ideas? I'll take that explanation now @lynchfourtwenty buddy, please :-)

Last edited by 93specv on 2014-03-27 at 19-05-45.
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