Thread: T25 Dp Filament Suggestions

So I got a brand new 3in VRS downpipe for my T25 but i'm having a filament issue. I got the car with the SR20DET U13 swapped in it but its all stock with bluebird mani, T25 turbo and Jpipe. I've notifed VRS and as there is always the possibilty this one could be flawed, I've never really seen someone complain about the filament so in the meantime while i await there ideas and suggestions I figured i'd post up a thread and see if I could find a remedy here. The problem i am having is the flex section is pressing up against the cross member. I can get the pipe fully installed but i'm getting a slight leak where the pipe meets the CAT and from constant vibration im sure will take a toll on the flex. Also i'm worried the flex section might not fully do its job since its so tight up against the Xmember. Below are some pictures of my situation. I've tried installing it from each end first, no luck.

Here is the old next to the new


Here is where it is touching


Further back


Here you can see when I can get it on that front bolt gaps there. I can close it back tightening the nut, but that of course squishes the flex harder against the Xmember


Here it is installed from the passenger side, again when i ran the car i was getting a slight leak where it met the CAT


Closer installed shot


Installed shot from the drivers


Another shot of it touching in

And finally close up in daylight


Anyone have any ideas what i could do? My last resort [pending when i hear back from VRS and exhaust other options] was to take it to a local shop and try to have them alter it to fit because theres no good welders that i know of around me I trust to do a good job. I dont wana grind the cross member or anything that would hurt its structural integrity. Another last resort idea was to perhaps trade someone this 3in for a 2.5 mandrel bent pipe, but itd have to have a bung for a wideband in it like this one has. Let me know what kinda ideas you got fellas

You put the copper nut on wrong.. and it looks like vrs needs to man up on this..

Yeah i just put the copper nut on real quick to see if it would all tighten, didnt realize I put the crush part on top, you'll notice the original nut underneath it, i was digging around in the cross member and found it in there lol!

Yeah I got an Email asking if everything was stock, which it is....and to send them some pictures so they might look into it an recommend a fix. I hope they step up cuz I'm really bummed it's so close

What is the casting # on your J-Pipe? Wrong J-Pipe will change the angle that you are after.

I'm not sure, hard to see it on the back side. Heres a picture i took, keep in mind this is a mirror image, like i put a mirror up and took a pic of what i see in the mirror, so I think that is like D600? Does that help? Keo had confirmed it as T25 Jpipe from the pictures via the location of the holes where the heat shield would screw into.



When i mirror the image its a backwards D first then 600 lol

Fitment

I'd cut the flex and welded it correctly

Maybe they just shipped you the wrong one. Dunno.

Nope, it's a t25 jpipe and matching jpipe. It's it wrong the fit much will be much work.

Yea me and Eric are thinking the flex was welded a bit crooked. Thing is I dont know how to weld nor do I have a welder. Shouldn't VRS pick up that tab on this if thats the case?

Whats a t25 dp filament?