Thread: No compression....

So I went to start my car for the first time after building a motor for it. Had a cosworth head gasket and mazworxs studs. Car ran great for about 60 seconds then i turned on the ac and it started running like crap. Long story short the head didn't seal so I pulled it all apart took the head to get resurfaced and bought an OEM gasket from the local dealership. Put it all back together and the damn thing didn't seal again!?!?! Same thing started right up and idled great, but after a few 3k revs it started running like crap again. I purchased the block from a good and trusted fried that already had it punched out to 87mm and supposedly was decked. The studs came with instructions to torque to 60lb/ft. Seems low to me but this was my first time using head studs so I just went with it. If anyone has any suggestions other than pushing it over a cliff please let me know. TIA!

Also the machine shop tested the valves and this is just a de not a ve. Not that that should matter...

Thanks again!

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60ft/lbs does seem kinda low are you sure that wasnt just the first torque number out of 2 or 3? For example 60 then 90 then 120 or something like that.

Yeah. The instructions were 20 40 60... I was thinking about cranking them to 80 and see what happens...

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Looks like you missed some important information, see this

RNN14 Nissan Pulsar GTIR Online Workshop Manual | Covering B13 series

NOTE: this is for an SR20DE head, NOT the SR20DET.

They are not factory head bolts. They are ARP studs sold through mazworx. As stated above.

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Nowhere did you state they were ARP studs, you do however talk about 'studs' but so what.

If you don't want suggestions or correct tightening procedures, which is why the head has floated TWICE, then don't ask.

Or go to the stud manufacturers and ask is if the instructions are the correct procedure for an SR20DE head, as it differs from what the Nissan service/repair manual states.

end of advice or suggestions.

It clearly says in the first post they were mazworx studs and in the third post that the included instructions were followed. No hard feelings buddy.

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I understand you're pissed off about your troubles, but mazworx studs are NOT ARP, or do mazworx now make ARP products.

Yes you did say instructions were included, BUT I asked WHERE THEY THE CORRECT instructions.

As you have had TWO failures with these studs I would suggest that there is a MAJOR problem, either with the studs or the tensioning instructions.

You work out which.

Did you actually run a compression test? Leakdown test? When doing the compression test did you do it on a warm engine, dynamically and statically? Did you install new rings? Hone the cylinders? Who did the bore? Is this a fresh bore or has is been broken in? Did they use a torque plate?

I really don't think the studs are your problem here.

A dynamic compression test was done with the engine warm. I have yet to do a leak down test. The valves were check by a local reputable machine shop that resurfaced the head. As far as the block goes. Its been sitting on a stand for about 5 or 6 years assembled with with the head bolted on. When I got the engine I rebuilt it replacing the stock rods, head gasket, and head bolts. My friend I got it from said it was bored with a torque plate and decked. The rings are brand new also. I measured and file fit them myself.

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