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Thread: Can't decide on which H-beams to go for: Eagles or Manleys

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Posts: 11-19 of 19
2013-05-26 16:35:07
#11
Originally Posted by Doug

If u wanted to make upwards of that u may wanna change out rod bolts to ARP.


The ones I've seen, both Eagles and Manleys come with ARP 2000. But I'm probably taking turbotank's offer. He's got some bad ass BC pro rods. A bit over my budget, but DAMN those things are sexy haha


Liljay thanks for clearing that up. I'ma make sure mine get checked too and honed if theyre not proper
Last edited by Speedingmofa on 2013-05-26 at 16-36-28.
2013-05-26 19:16:22
#12
Ita cheap money if u need to get them cut. Anytime guy. I'm using eagles and they look pretty serious. Brass inserts ftw
2013-05-26 19:46:50
#13
Originally Posted by Doug
I'm not saying its completely nescessary. I'm sure for a drag engine you would be fine. But as far as longevity and ensuring proper bearing clearances.

Any rod you buy needs to be ckd. I don't care if there $800crower or $200 eagle. Rods need to be ckd and possibly honed to proper spec.

Ask any good machinist they will tell u the same.


I don't care who makes them they need to be checked prior to assembly. if your real picky like me you measured everything prior to it going to the machine shop. My manleys did not require any machining.
2013-05-27 21:59:14
#14
Yea i was definitely going to measure them myself with a micrometer. Just didn't expect that most of em required machining even tho they're brand new
Last edited by Speedingmofa on 2013-05-27 at 22-00-58.
2013-05-28 16:05:00
#15
I am using Eagle rods in my motor and we have used them many times before with no issues. They are great and strong rods. They will hold whatever the average person throws at them. You can't go wrong with either rod honestly. As for as measuring any good engine builder should be doing this regardless the rods they are using.
2013-05-28 21:25:28
#16
I used Eagles in my previous 500+ whp build, and now I am going with Manley. Either or is just fine. Both great rods.
2013-05-29 01:09:12
#17
Just be careful on the manley rods, their torque specs are kinda whack. They want you to use a stretch gauge to figure the torque specs which most builders dont use. But they say on their sheet that if you dont have a stretch gauge to torque the arp2000 bolts to 60-70 ft lbs which is way too much and ended up out of rounding my rods...every one of them. Every other set of rods ive done, BC, Crower, Eagle all want you to torque those same arp2000 bolts to 42-45 ft lbs which is correct and never had any problems with any of those torquing them to that spec. The manley rod bolts ended up being way over stretched at the 65 ft lbs i torqued them to. So please be careful. They say the manleys are a bit stronger than the eagles. Ive personally ran eagles past 550whp possibly even over 600whp but never dynod and never had any rod problems.
2013-05-29 10:57:13
#18
Good info right there for those using Manley rods. I went for a different route, Brian crower's h-beam 625+.. Way overkill but at least i know they won't give up on me and stick an arm out
2013-06-04 04:48:09
#19
I have used a set of BC rods and Pauter in my builds. Eagles in other builds. Honestly, if I ever found a rod that needed more machining after getting them, I wouldn't buy it again. These things are precision machined from the factory. I agree that they should be checked as well, especially if using the less expensive brands. If you find one out of spec, I would return that pos and buy a different brand. I've never had a set out of spec personally, in any of the rods I've used.
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