Thread: BlackTop, RedTop, FWD, RWD, My head is exploding!

Aaaahhh, got it on the double post. Had me scratching my head there, or thinking I was posting in my sleep... this stuff has consumed me for weeks now so it wouldn't surprise me too much.

I will have pics to post this weekend. I'll probably start a build thread just for grins. The shell has the standard (from what I understand) rust on the door jams, but there's not much at all. A couple of dings here and there, and the hood looks like a very small centralized hail storm went to town, but other than that it's pretty clean. I'm not sure if they come this way from the factory, but it looks like the under body was coated at some point.

I'm not too worried about the hood. I was planning on going with an EVO style CF hood I found online for around $500 and having it painted black like the rest of the car, unless someone has a better suggestion. I just want to make sure I have a good way to vent the heat from the turbo.

@blackngreenb14 don't take it offensively. We have people asking these rather simple questions all of the time. After you answer them for the 100th time, you get tired of doing all of the work for the person. This is where we start telling you do your own research.

Basically, if we tell you to do something, and you screw it up and ruin your new engine, you will blame us. If you do the research yourself and decide yourself, then you can only blame yourself .

Generally speaking if you have to ask, you are not ready to undertake that task. This applies to most people who post these kind of threads, they just end up giving up and going elsewhere. People that actually do build motors generally don't ask such basic questions, because they did the research already.

I'm not taking any serious offense. I understand how it goes on forums. Between software development, my Camaro days, and various and as-sundry other things, I've been down the same road.

I had done a quick search, turned up nothing, and was actively discussing the possiblity of purchasing the engine via text with the guy. Didn't want to agree to something that I couldn't use and I figured someone on here would be able to through up a quick reply and stop me in my tracks. As it turns out, @Ulysses did. Thanks.

Skills in building motors, cars, etc. isn't my issue... it's all of the options surrounding these builds. I imagine my setup is going to change a couple of times. I have a couple of different motors to work with as time progresses, I just want to get this puppy back on the road the simplest way possible for now. I have no problem changing the head or the whole motor out later if necessary. I'm already looking at having to upgrade the transmission in the future.

This car will not be my daily driver (well, I might prefer to drive it when I get done). It's a hobby, and I have classically put a LOT of time and money into my hobbies.

My plans currently include:
(Eventually) SR20VE+T (Forged internals if necessary)
30R Turbo
750cc+ Injectors (If that's big enough)
CF Hood
300ZX Brake Conversion (Just have to source some B15 knuckles)
Back Half Roll Cage
Bucket race seats w/ 5 points.

Oh, and I can't forget the Nismotronic and step down cable I have coming from NC this week.

Nice that's more like it then. Get a 20VE head right of way, don't waste time with other heads if your going to replace it down the road anyway.

I had an SR20VE+T but am going back to Roller Rocker with stock internals and disco potato. I want better gas mileage of the low friction RR and am not wanting too much power so VE is an overkill. I could sell you my head if your not too far away from VA.

Now keep in mind VE needs oil pressure. RR and DE oil pumps are little too weak. I would do at least a DET, but preferably a VE oil pump.

I'm fairly certain the DET that I'm getting has all of the accessories and internal items (including the oil pump). While I'm in there, I might as well change it out though. Nothing sucks like having to crack open the bottom end to change a freaking oil pump (I'm assuming they're in relatively the same location as an SBC). Well, except for that oil pump going out causing you to blow the motor.

I might take you up on that VE head. Any difference between the short block on those two motors? VE head on a DET block sound pretty good?

DET
Skinny Block
Piston Coolers
Oil cooler in the back of the block
Strong Pistons 8.5 CR
8CW Crank
Good oil pump (60-80psi)
Strong Sodium Filled valves
Total Compression: 8.5:1

VE
RR styled block
Piston Coolers
Weak 9.5 CR pistons (same as USDM Roller Rocker)
4CW Crank
Great Oil pump (80-120 psi)
Standard valves
Total Compression: 10.3:1

When you use VE head on DET block with DET 8.5cr pistons, you will get close to 9.3:1cr. Which is perfect for boost. Plus VE head is very detonation resistant.

Downside is, DET pistons need to be notched if you want to run anything but stock SR20VE cams, otherwise valves will hit. Also you need to provide oil pressure externally to the VE head.

4CW vs 8CW, 8 counter weight crank is more harmonically balanced, thus you can run light crank pulley and flywheel without any ill effects. 4CW crank is lighter, and doesn't always like light crank pulley.

I've read on external oil pumps before. Is that what you're referring to here?

Tapping block for turbo

http://www.sr20-forum.com/turbo/62428-tapping-block-sr20ve-t-quick-question.html


Tapping for VVL head swap

My VE head swap how to (picture heavy) + Roller Rocker! - SR20 Forum

Thanks!

Naw u have to run a oil line externally to the head, because the de,Det blocks don't have the built in oil port of the ve head. Kinda like the Honda guys do for ls vtec. Block the port in the head. Drill a access hole and then run a hose from that hole to a oil pressure source.