Thread: RR SR20DE vs Bluebird SR20DET Rebuild

As it turns out, the RR motor has some serious shavings in the oil pan... I think my best option at this point is to just have the Bluebird SR20DET put back together. I guess since I'm doing it from the ground up, I could go ahead with better internals.

Is there anything other than the head (and of course the oil squirts) that separates these motors?

Any recommendations on a cam or anything else?

Det has lower compression which is good for boost and a better crank (8cw vs 4cw for the rr)
S4 cams, ve head gasket, ve oil pump and upgraded rod bearings would be my recommendations.

Wow!

What, why? I know US and EU/JDM RR´s are different, but we never had such a problem. Most problem is probably weaker piston/rings and right tune to avoid detonations.

I think it's because USDM RR's have a redline of 6700 RPM, thus they decided to put weaker valve springs on. I was very close to just buying a JDM RR for the stronger head, but it's easier to just install VE valve springs in the RR.

Really? Hmmmm

What kind of VE springs? Is it direct replacement? Anyone tried that before? Very curious about that.

I would do a stock bluebird rebuild with better bearings, vet head gasket and arp hardware as that will handle all the disco can throw at it unless you plan on over boosting it. Save the money for other upgrades and changing the intercooler piping since you are going to be using a highport and not a low port and there will be some modifications that are needed. The DET internals are plenty strong enough. I would use larger injectors and a tuneable ecu instead of spending money on internals. That is the beauty of these engines. It isn't a Honda so it doesn't need to be built. 400whp all day when tuned right. The money saved on internals should be used so that it is tuned right, a real time ecu and larger injectors will make more power reliably than forged internals.
JMHO, take from it what you want but I have seen people have more issues over building and over thinking things that should be really easy while doing a det. No need to build for a disco setup unless it will see road racing or constant drag racing all day every day.
Drew

Sorry someone else would have to answer that .

I have never done this before but I have done some research on this in the past as I had once considered everything under the sun for the RR motor.

Using VE dual springs in a RR head has been done before. If you search the old forum long enough you will find a thread discussing this. I stumbled upon it some time earlier this year or last year. I tried to locate the thread (tonight) but I could not.

Here is what I know/remember from the thread:

The RR valve springs have a 37 mm installed height. The VE springs also have a 37 mm installed height. (Note:Supertech measures the seat pressure of their VE springs @ 37.3 mm, when installed). The RR are single outer spring/seat while the VE are dual spring/seat. From what I remember from the thread, a little bit of machine work was required for the VE inner spring/seat. I do not recall the specific details.

From a Nissan parts bin perspective, the VE and RR heads use different part numbers for springs, seats, retainers, valves, etc. They only share the same p/n for the collet/keeper. The valve lengths are different and the spring free heights are slightly different as well. There are other minor measured variations as well.

If I stumble across that thread, I will post up a link.


Edit: Just to be clear, the specs given out (the ones I quoted/linked for Roller Rocker) are for USDM Roller Rocker engines. The specs I have posted (for RR engine) are USDM specifications. I can not confirm that the JDM/UKDM/other Roller Rocker specifications are exactly the same.


I thought I would add these pictures as a reference tool, just incase somebody was interested.

VE specs (Valves/springs/clearances etc.)





Info obtained from here.


USDM SR20DE RR ('01) (Valves/springs/clearances etc.)