Thread: Best turbo to use on a standard SR20VE engine.

I thought so too. Thanks

What turbo and mainfold though?

Gti-r std turbo-200gbp/ mainfold-20gbp / downpipe- 20gbp go very cheap here too.

Gtir ported an modified for external gate, usually the mani's here go for 150-250$ and modded ones 300-350$

my turbo is a precision 5128 but is basically a gt2871r, they are even priced the same new 1399$ is what i found last i looked.

my wastegate is a tial 38mm which goes for 150-250$ used and subaru sti injectors go for 100-150$ used, intercoolers can be found really cheap, 50-100$ but usually big name brands are a bit more.

i'm all about shopping smart lol.

like i said i hope it all works good for ya and i hope ya take it to a tuner to be done right

Well I could have gone for this set up but wanted a bigger turbo.
This is cheap selling in UK.

Dude....RETURN IT!!!!!!!!!!!!

Get yourself a kando td06l2....much better set up! and will be cheaper


I am not joking whe I say the turbo kit pictured is a dog and not suited to the ve at all. Laggy, small turbine and mismatched comp wheel. Return it.

So many different views lol
I am thinking just to keep it, get refund for repair and stick with it.:o

p.s just found more pictures of the car the parts came from.

There are no different views....I am sure boostlee thought your turbo was a gt30r (aka gt3076) and did not realise it was a gt3040r (aka gt3082r) The reason for this is that turbo is rarely used anymore because its a laggy outdated piece of crap. On the assumption your turbo was a gt3076r his post was correct and it would be a good choice. However it is not.

Trust me that turbo is a dog, it has a huge 82mm compressor that creates lag and the small gt30 wheel does not keep up and creates a restriction.

Now lets also look deeper into this "kit" for you. Once a manifold starts cracking it is only downhill from there. Most of the type stainless manifolds start cracking due to the large amount of heat cycles (sometimes it can be a combination of that and poor bracing). So fixing the crack will help for a little while but its only a matter of time till another crack starts to appear in a different spot because the metal is fatigued.

Lets look further again....

The oil and coolant lines are also designed for a det and will not suit your ve, so you will have to pay for new lines aswell.

So what in the kit is usefull to you?

manifold.....no its use by date has passed
turbo.........no, its a pos there are a number of Chinese ones I would recommend instead.
oil and coolant lines....no you need new ones

Wategate, if that is not screwed aswell yeah it might be some use...but its one damn expensive wastegate!

I wont just bag the setup and not offer alternatives.
1st one is get a precision 5557. Will be less laggy that the gt3040 and make more power. Then get an chinese ebay spec gtir t3 manifold and wastegate.

the other is something like this. It is chinese but this particular brand is very good and uses all oem mitsubishi parts. You can even get a t2 version if you want to use a gtir manifold. porting cast iron to suit the ve ports is a bitch though.

Kinugawa Turbocharger 3" Anti-Surge TD06SL2-20G w/ T3/8cm/V-Band External Gate | eBay

Plus you cant use a dump pipe or anything now. If the rest of the kit was perfect....i.e. manifold was good, came with a v band style dump to cat etc I would say buy it and upgrade the turbo later when you have coin, But you are fixing something that should not be used in the first place.

I am not meaning to sound harsh, I am just trying to help and save you more money in the long run. Do it once do it properly!

although Andy loves the attention these threads bring him, he doesn't actually listen to any of the advice given to him, he was the same when "he" installed the ve in the first place

....phone....

Hahahaha. That is all.