Thread: N1 vs 20V blog, ate TB screw, fixed... i think.

That is the next thing on the list. I am going to check this asap. I think this may be caused by running the battery to the trunk.

So I got this thing running just now. The IC piping is not completed, but everything else is together, just gotta burp the coolant and hook up the intercooler.

The engine fired right up, first try. Took about 3 turns, cranking SUPER slow because the battery is pretty much dead.

But it runs. The idle was around 1500 rpm. Vacuum was around 13-15", which is a bit low, but not out of the ordinary for a cold start with the IAC open.

I think it is timed right. It fired right up without any issues at all, even with a dead battery.

I'll be getting it ready tomorrow to drive to check everything out.

Could it be? Could I have timed this thing completely by eyeballing TDC and hooking up the chain to the cam sprockets?

If it is off, it is off by 10* for intake and exhaust. But i would think it wouldn't fire right up like it did. What do you guys think?

your probably good. Ive always put my engines together by eyeballing it. Put it at tdc on the pulley, exhaust cam dowel straight up at the 12 oclock, 20 pins over from the dot and set the intake cam so there are 20 pins between dots. Simple as that. If its off it would not idle and run that good at all.

I put my exhaust cam retarded ten degrees because of craziness and the only way I got the car to fire up was by fully advancing the distributor and now my DE in my B14 probably has custom valve reliefs on the piston. I heard it, it happened and the engine and car is fine.

I tried to line up TDC on the crank pulley, but it won't work because the harmonic balancer has slipped... again.

So with the head off, i lined up TDC with the piston in the bore. Then slapped the head on.

I lined up the exhaust cam first, taking out slack in the chain and then putting the chain around the gear. I set the exhaust cam based on the pics in the FSM for TDC alignment.

Once the exhaust was lined up I decided to count over the 20 pins for the intake cam. So far it seems good.

You should be good. I do it a little different but it adds up to the same. I set the #1 piston to TDC the put the ex dowel pin at 12 o'clock. Hook up the chain and count 11 links over from dot to dot. I believe it is the same as counting 20 pins. Works good every time.

yep, u all are saying the same thing in different ways... good work coheed, no need to baby her for 500 miles though, dont over think the swallowed screw man. lol

I do it this way too. its the same as counting the pins but a little easier since the links are larger than the pins.

I'm just happy to have my car back. Such a relief. I got lucky. Now I warrant everyone on here to take the TB off and drill those screws out if you have to. Get them out, replace them with something that won't ever come out!

I don't care if you epoxy them in place, do it. Not worth risking your engine.

The only reason for this is I don't know how much foreign material made it into the engine while the car was in pieces, and I also don't know how much antifreeze made it into the oil.

When I drained the oil there was no evidence of antifreeze anywhere. But the new oil does have a slightly milky opaqueness, not frothy looking. But just to make sure things are good, I wanna take it easy for just a little bit. Hopefully change the oil in a few hundred miles and see where its at.

I was using a silicon drain hose off the turbo, apparently it cannot withstand the heat. I had a small section of silicone hose going into a braided hose for the return.

The silicone wasn't holding up, so I ground the fitting off the end of the braided stainless hose, and slid it on the barbed fitting for the drain on the turbo.

I didn't think the stainless line would slide on the barb, but it did. It works. I have a hose clamp holding it on. Through all the years I never did this, I would spend $$$ having fittings attached to this SS hose. I wish I could have found this out a long time ago, but I'm glad I actually tried it.

So, using a SS line with the fittings cut off both ends, the return line could just be routed from the barb on the block to the barb on the turbo. No special fittings required, and this stuff is super high temp.