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Thread: Project Boosted B13

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Posts: 121-130 of 131
2012-09-03 23:44:08
#121
Wait wut? Hell Chilton's could answer all of those questions.
2012-09-03 23:49:41
#122
after rereading part of your thread, i've came to the conclusion you should not do your own work on your car. sorry.. i just dont think you know what the hell your doing an when u have to ask these types of questions you probably shouldn't have a wrench in your hand.

pay someone else to do it so you dont have to keep asking the simplest questions, and more importantly so you dont fuck shit up.


not tryin to be a dick, im sure others will agree with me.
2012-09-04 13:13:43
#123
Originally Posted by lynchfourtwenty
thats like asking how to poor a bowl of cereal. how far do i fill up the milk? do i put the cereal in the bowl then the milk or the milk then the cereal, and how big of spoon should i use?


Lol
The op needs to do a lot of research
2012-10-28 02:16:07
#124
Ouch you guys are pretty brutal! I am the first to admit that I'm not very mechanically inclined but I thought that's what the purpose of the forum was for? I don't have a whole lot of time to do the necessary research at times. Especially something as intricate as the process of getting a car like this running right. I work full time, own and run a business on my own and just started another business with 2 other business partners which requires me to meet with them 2 times a week (at least) on top of spending a lot of time with my girlfriend which is why I sincerely appreciate any and all help I get from you guys on here! So for those of you that are annoyed with my posts my sincerest apologies go out to you and in return for the help from all of you I have made it my personal goal to be able to contribute in anyway I can as a small token of my gratitude

Anyway, I've been making a lot of progress on the B13, the motor is out of the car again, I got a low mileage B14 LSD tranny on craigslist for $130 I also have a slightly used fx400 pressure plate and 6 puck sprung disc on the way so that takes care of the crappy clutch/transmission problem. I do have to go to the hardware store tomorrow to get bolts long enough to put the motor on the stand so I can pull the head off and replace the head gasket. Which should make everything a lot easier.

I was taking the brake lines off the master cylinder so I could put the NX2K one in and the fittings for the lines off the M/C are stripped, my first thought was to cut the lines and grab some off a car in the junkyard but an easier approach would be to order new ones if these are something you can get new?
2012-11-21 05:40:26
#125
I got a chance to work on the car last night and tonight, I have tomorrow off so I'm hoping I'll be able to get some serious progress made

Status update:

Got the head off, I think I saw where the head gasket may have been leaking, did stock W10's come with metal head gaskets?

Valve cover off (didn't clean it at all):



Decided to leave the gears on the cams so disregard the zip ties, intake dowel at 10 o'clock exhaust at 12, made sure cylinder #1 was at TDC before doing all this



Cams are out:



Followed FSM specs for removal of head bolts using a 3/8 10mm allen head socket and a cheater bar, head is off:



Head by itself



Before I took the head off I noticed one of the lifters was dead, if I can't get them renewed by bleeding them I'll have to make an order to Rockauto. I'm pretty sure I'll be able to bring it back. I'll take pics of me bleeding them when I get back out there



As it stands now I have to clean the head up and prep for the new HG, I came back in after my dremel tool broke

I'm going to put a straight edge on the head to make sure it's not warped before I put it back on as well, I'll take more pics when I get the studs in the block

On another note I dropped the flywheel off at the machine shop at lunch today and picked it up after work, don't mind the greasy fingerprints:



I got an FX400 disc and pressure plate from a forum member, the disc is in good shape but the pressure plate has bad heat spots on it, I pulled a white pressure plate off the motor originally so I think it's a clutchmasters and it's not in bad shape at all, if I can't find a better one by the time I put the tranny on I'll have to use that, anyone have an FX400 pressure plate for sale?
Last edited by SentraThis96 on 2012-11-21 at 05-48-34. Reason: Updated IMG
2012-11-22 21:59:33
#126
Yesterday was my first day off in over 2 weeks, I used it wisely by working on the car

Ran to my local Tool Exchange and picked up a used Dremel tool and a bunch of bits for $25

For the block and head I used this coarse non abrasive bit and here is the result:

Block:


Head:


After the head and block were clean we studded up the block:



It's easier to put the head gasket on first as it was hard to get the gasket around the chain guard onto the studs

ARP stud vs OEM head bolt:



The nuts for the studs are 1/2" 12 point, I used a deep socket on the torque wrench and we didn't need an extension, but we did need the cheater bar for the final sequence to 90ft/lbs, we also had to hold the stand because the casters don't lock, other than that it was a breeze

I tried to bleed the lifter but couldn't get it to de-squishify so I ordered one from Rockauto for $18, pretty bummed out because I wanted to get the car running by the weekend looks like it'll have to wait til next week because of the freakin holidays...

We at least got the head on and torqued down, now I'm just waiting for that freakin lifter so I can put the rocker arms and cams back in.

I was hoping to source some S4's before I put everything back together but I haven't yet, if anyone has any for sale hit me up ASAP

It's been quite the learning experience for my brother and I; we are both becoming more and more comfortable working on things we haven't done before, by the time I am going to want to tear everything down for a rebuild and VE head swap we'll be ready other than finding a reputable machine shop to take the motor to locally :/ my buddy just got his SRT4 motor honed and crank balanced and the bearings they put in were too big so the crank wouldn't spin... Oh well, I'll cross that bridge when I come to it.

More updates soon!
Last edited by SentraThis96 on 2012-11-22 at 22-12-11.
2013-02-05 17:49:37
#127
I have gotten more time to work on the car!

I ended up taking the head off and taking it to the machine shop to get it decked, trying to cut corners to get the car running but it's not worth the possible hassle(s).

fresh from the machine shop:





Also got the control arm bushings in, to get the "tubes" out of the control arm itself we used a map torch to heat the bushing up then a large punch (or comparable tool that will fit around the inner tube) and a sledge to bang it through. Once the inner tube was out we used a reciprocating saw to cut out a piece of the larger casing and used a flat head screw driver to wedge between the case and the control arm, we pushed the screwdriver all the way through with a sledge and that bent the casing enough for it to come out. Installing the new ones were easy especially with the ES Bushing Lube

here is what the casing looked like when it came out:



If you have a vice and/or a press this would be a lot easier but is definitely doable without.

As for the bushings that go into the ends of the control arm, you drop this plate here:



excuse all the grease, that is all cleaned up now

The end links for the sway bar were bad so I ordered new ones from Rockauto to use with the ES bushings.

I ordered an N1 water pump from NissanRaceShop.com and got that installed while the motor was out.

Last night we started to prep the chassis for paint:





Can't wait for the engine bay to look better, the surface rust from where the battery sat looks terrible. The harness is out, we got the rack and pinion out (gonna get a reman'd one from rackdoctor) as well as the vacuum and coolant lines out, I also took the charcoal canister out, would there be any problems running the car without that? As far as I know the canister just stores gas vapors when the engine is off but I figured venting through PCV would be fine? We got about 50% of it sanded last night should be able to get the rest done later this week. Once the chassis is ready all I'll need are those two brake lines (which I believe I can get from Courtessy Parts) and a new clutch kit and I should be able to get everything else in! Getting pretty excited to be able to drive her!

I'm getting a gti-r manifold off my buddy whose switching to a log manifold and I also sourced a Garrett BB t28. Hoping the t28 will fit without issues. If all goes PERFECTLY well I can fit a low pressure line for A/C and have A/C (maybe) haha. I'm not sure If I'll throw the t28 on with the W10 ecu, not sure how it will run if it's tuned for the stock turbo... I'd like to be able to get some bigger injectors and Nismotronic asap but my main goal is getting the car up and running. I can't wait to do a MAF delete and play with boost by gear and antilag!

I'm hoping we can get it going by Mopars on the Strip, I'd like to be able to make a pass or two and do some auto x!

Still in the search for some secondhand S4's, I really don't want to spend $600 on cams but if I don't find anyone with some I may have to end up doing that :/
2013-10-08 02:39:20
#128
It's been quite a while and due to recent changes with everything I have had little to no time to work on the car. Until a few days ago

So I left off with everything in the car, the car would turn over but I wasn't getting communication from the ECU, I thought it was because I didn't have the grounds for the intake manifold so I thought that the ECU wasn't getting ground. That's how the car sat for a while.

A few days ago I finally got to work on it, after probing all grounds at the harness, all pins that are supposed to be getting ground are, so that wasn't the problem.

I still had the stock SE-R ECU so I thought I would try plugging that in, low and behold the CEL came on and the fuel pump primed. After checking some sensors to make sure they were plugged in correctly I primed the fuel pump a few times and it started! I had a FRAM oil filter on because I was going to let it run a bit on conventional oil then use an OEM filter and synthetic oil for a change after I knew everything was working, after I started it up the first time the oil filter flew off and oil gushed everywhere. After confirming that the FRAM oil filter part number was right for a highport, I went to tighten it and it would tighten and right as it became snug would come loose, like there weren't enough threads. I felt the block off plate to see if it was stripped but it felt fine. Today after work I went and got a Mobil 1 Filter for a highport and it has more than twice as many threads than the FRAM! I knew FRAM was bad and I wasn't planning on even driving the car with a FRAM oil filter but I had no idea that they were THAT incompetent. So I fired it up and minus a power steering leak I don't think I am leaking anything!

As to be expected it is running a bit rough, it'll idle smooth at around 2k rpm but will barely run most of the time because I am using the stock SE-R ecu with a U13 MAF. I was only running it to see if it would run which it is.

My question now is, with the other ECU is there anyone that can go through it and see if it's refurbishable? FWD DET ECU's are a bit hard to find and my pockets aren't quite deep enough to shell out for Nismotronic... yet.

What are my options for ECU and MAF just to get it running and driving? Once I have achieved that I can get on the other stuff like brakes, radiator fan, etc.
2013-10-08 16:07:06
#129
So TJ has a BB ECU that I'm getting from him hopefully today. I'll throw it on and connect the heat exchanger to the TB and see how it runs! I most likely won't be able to try it until tomorrow though :'(

I'll post with my progress!
2013-10-11 04:33:50
#130
I connected the MAF and the ECU, the MAF is now mounted onto the intake tube pre-turbo, BUT it won't start with the MAF connected. If I disconnect the MAF it will run and idle at ~2k rpm for a little before it wants to die. I'm thinking the MAF needs to be reground, that's what I plan on doing this weekend when I can work on the car next.

If anyone who is following this thread and knows the best way to reground the MAF, please share what you've done. I was going to hijack into the white (middle) wire coming off the MAF clip, crimp it to an eye connector and bolt it to the thermostat housing with the main ground coming off the battery?
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