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Thread: Turbo Talk: GT3071R or similar?

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Posts: 21-30 of 65
2012-03-04 08:02:38
#21
Originally Posted by Andreas
It is still more cost effective to go with a SR20VET, considering what his car has on it. The prices are still the same he just has more parts to sell to build a motor,

I see more built motors break on this forum than I see stock motors break, that being NA or Turbo. Those are facts.

SR20VET is a complete diffrent animal to any other SR20 turbo motor.

A SR20VET has bigger and stronger rods than a GTIR. It has forged pistons. It comes with a girdle. If Manny is going for 450 WHP then that is nothing for a VET. DETs take 400 WHP no problem and GTIRs take 500 WHP no problem.


At the end of the day Manny will go where his heart is, which most likely will be building a motor.


Thats because people didnt build them right and/or didnt know what they were doing or the people that built the motor for them dont know what they are doing. Ive yet to have any of my built motors fail and that was well beyond 500+whp. Ive got several 240 SR motors out there that ive built that have been running for years between 350-500whp as well without problems. A built motor done correctly should never have any major issues unless something caused by a tune issue and so on. Even then a built motor will withstand a good amount of detonation without a problem.
2012-03-04 09:04:11
#22
I do agree with Andreas in the sense that a stock SR20 either it be a DE, VE, GITR, VET will take anything the average person will throw at it. Even today after so many years these motors in stock form continue to take abuse and hold great power. Look at my boy Gio.

With Manny's power goals a stock motor will take the abuse and smile. Now like Dre said Manny will go with what he knows and likes.
2012-03-04 09:06:26
#23
Originally Posted by ashtonsser
Ive yet to have any of my built motors fail


Didn't your most recent built motor fail?
2012-03-04 09:11:24
#24
i plan on 30r for my civic build, i had a sc61 on my sr loved it but want something more responsive

i vote 30r
2012-03-04 10:19:21
#25
Originally Posted by SE-Rican
Didn't your most recent built motor fail?


Nada, same motor that had 16k miles on it of torture when i took the head off. The motor was still running however had low compression and a ton of blowby again caused from when the fuel pressure took a dump, got some heavy detonation causing the issue. Motor is still in one piece, the head when i pulled it still looked perfect. You remember the head that I put holes in the valves in from very high egts again due to the unknown fuel pressure issue at the time but didnt do anything to the bottom end. The second time however on 35 lbs when it happened it did some damage to the top rings.

This was an unrelated issue to the motor being built. Matter fact for it to take that much detonation and still be in the condition its in is pretty good. Bottom end bearings both main and rod look perfect. Just needs a fresh hone on the walls and new rings.
2012-03-04 13:31:39
#26
Guys, I like the input...but this isn't about what motor or how about how I am going about my build. This is about which turbo is best for the goals I want to accomplish.
2012-03-04 13:48:36
#27
Well you got a lot of good recommendations. I personally like the Precision billet units. Again there are soo many sizes you can pick from and they will be much cheaper than the garrett units and outperform them. And if you want to spend 400 more on it you can get the dual bb version and give yourself even more response. Size the turbo accordingly especially when it comes to the turbine side. The ve's love the larger turbine housings if you want to make good power all the way to your rev limit whatever that may be. Helps keep backpressure down and keeps things safe. Id recommend at least the .82 T3 turbine housing if your planning on reving to 8k+ If not the next size down should be fine and will help down low with spool time.
2012-03-04 15:32:25
#28
I like the 30r on the ve-t. i have full boost by 3100rpm in 4th according to my dyno log files.
2012-03-04 15:40:43
#29
SE-Rawkus, admittedly I didn't read this would be on a VE head and that you don't want to run water lines. That changes things. I would stick with a T3 flanged turbo for sure. A smaller one, like the GT3071R (or any other brand turbo around that size). I'm not up on which turbos do an do not have water jackets though. =/
2012-03-04 15:43:51
#30
Originally Posted by BenFenner
SE-Rawkus, admittedly I didn't read this would be on a VE head and that you don't want to run water lines. That changes things. I would stick with a T3 flanged turbo for sure. A smaller one, like the GT3071R (or any other brand turbo around that size). I'm not up on which turbos do an do not have water jackets though. =/


Most bb turbos have to run water lines.
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