Thread: Braided Fuel Lines?

First off I am wondering who here is running aftermarket fuel lines?

I want to do this to my car and I was wondering a few things. I want to run a -8 feed line and a -6 return line. My first question how much line of each size do you think I willl need? I was thinking 10' or so of each. I planned on runing the line along side the factory lines in order to keep things as OEM as possible as far as routing. I know I can find all the fittings that I need but, the only thing I am in the dark with is the transition from the OEM line coming out of the tank to the -8 line. If I was using an external pump this would be easy but, in this case I am not. I will be running a Aeromotive Stealth which is a in tank pump.

Also with the -8 line I can not run a OEM fuel filter so just wondering if any of you have any experience with an aftermarket fuel filter. I know Aeromotive sells a few different kinds.

Talk to me people!!

The best way to do it run a surge tank right after the stock pump. There's fittings you can use that are hose clamp and barb on one end and an fitting on the other.

Aeromotive or Kinsler make great fuel filters.

You are going to need more than 10' of stainless line.

Thanks for the feed back. I will research the surge tank option. Also I meant 15' the 10' was a typo.

15' is just about right, but maybe a little short depending on how much of the rubber you're going to replace with it in addition to the hard line. Time to get out the string, or buy more than you need.
You're going to need basically the same length for feed as for return. They start and end at the same places (with the fuel filter on the feed line being the only difference).

Going from the braided line to the fuel pump assembly sounds like a job for a simple bung on the end of the braided line and a short section of rubber hose to the fuel pump assembly bungs. However that's going to be a size change, and that rubber might be hard to come by?
And you're sort of defeating the purpose of the bigger lines if you're going to keep the fuel pump assembly bungs in tact? No?

I would highly recommend against doing a smaller return than feed unless you know exactly what you're getting into with that and are compensating accordingly.

Not sure what happened to my post, but I will just drop another here. I used aluminum hard line a small bender and flare tool and did all my lines for a fraction of the cost of braided.

Russell Performance - Aluminum Fuel Lines

Brent

I did this to mine Rob,

I bought 20' of 1/2" aluminum hardline and had plenty left over. Roughly used about 12 ft to go from the back by the tank to the front by the subframe using the tunnel. But you probably are running exhaust so might just go along the frame rail where the factory ones go.

I bought 10' of -8 fuel line and only 5' of -6 and then all the proper AN fittings i needed. The hardline is a much cheaper and cleaner route to go than doing all braided line from back to front.

As for the return, Rob I would suggest to you to save some dough is to use the factory feed line as the return. Just do a braided line from the regulator to the feed line with a clamp. -6 hose fits onto the factory feed line perfectly and is the same inside diameter and you will have no issues at all. With my dual pump setup there was no issues at all returning enough fuel. Maxing out both of my pumps flow, i was only seeing about 15psi on the regulators gauge as it was flowing massive amounts of fuel through the lines and regulator. Regulator was all the way loosened.

If you want Rob I can hook you up with a guy from Hondatech to get you all the hardline, braided hoses and fittings you need to convert your fuel system. You wont need all of the fittings that i needed for my inline pump and stuff.

Honestly for your power goals you would be fine factory feed and return but if its something you want to do let me know and I can give you his contact information. It cost me about 240.00 for all the lines hoses and fittings. Im sure he could hook you up.

Ah, so there are others that did this to.

Brent

Yep, It took a couple tries with the flare tool before I got it down. Its just a matter of keeping the stupid thing straight. The AN fittings are a i believe 53* flare. You can use a standard 45 deg flare tool and let the fitting do the rest of the work. Main thing is to flare it out enough to where it goes over the AN fitting enough and then just crank the fitting down until tight. The flared part of the hardline will form to the AN fitting.

I didnt have a tubing bender but they are cheap and i didnt have to make any crazy bends the way i did mine. Two long swooping 90's and then it was a straight shot to the subframe and then a slight bend upwards between the body and subframe on the passenger side. I have no exhaust so the tunnel was the easiest place to run it and mount it. Plus much less braided hose running in the bay this way since my inlet of the fuel rail is on that side.

Again Rob your probably better off just using some rubber clamps and use the 10mm bolts holding the cover over the factory lines to mount it and run the line. Should be pretty easy and there isnt any crazy bends.

Easiest way for you to do it would probably be to use a 3/8" hose from the fuel tank down to where the factory lines are. Use a 3/8" push lock fitting to female -8 fitting to connect to the -8 union connected to the 1/2" aluminum hardline. Then at the front go to the -8 braided hose.

No need for a surge tank or any of that stuff. Just complicates things and money spent for no reason. Im assuming your using the Stealth 340 intank pump. That pump combined with the -8 feed and stock return should be able to support 600+whp no problems.

I have a sumped factory tank with -10 feeding both 044 Bosch pumps with a filter on both then to a y block witch is 2 -10 to one -8 then another filter a-8 feed and a -8 return