Thread: Lynch's 6spd / VE-T thread

looks good lynch.

thanks man

Looking good!

I'm not sure if you covered it or not but for the two studs you had to cut, you should get rid of the big flat washers and in place of them, use a lock washer and some non-permanent thread locker. That will keep everything in place.

yeah thats an idea, i was also thinking of maybe shortening the nut a bit too, and or possibly buying more studs and not cutting them quite as short.. we'll see what happens im gonna keep a good eye on it.

Very nice work Josh. I'm honestly very impressed at how well that worked out and cleared everything. It wasn't the easiest thing to do based on only pictures and not having the car here. I've been losing sleep up until now...

hey man it worked out great lol

few words of advice for future projects: T2 turbos use m8 studs, the m10's require work and are a tight fit, also t25 outlet flanges are different then t28 flanges however there are universal ones that fit both, also ve's should use specific ve flanges unless you got a vet gasket to use to alter the flange.. Last thing, you might want to consider putting an alternator on your mock up engine just incase.. I was able to use a half inch shorter belt but im at the bottom of my adjustment so it was pretty close.

other then that man great work im really happy how things fit, you were able to use up the room in my bay without me having to change my radiator placement or intake pipe and the oil drain lines up better then before.

and the wastegate is a breeze to get on and off, the other manifold was tricky to get that shit lol it drove me nuts!! also the head flange nuts to bolt the manifold on were all easily accessible, at first i was a bit worried but when i started tightening em i found them really easy to get to.

thanks again man.

Before:



After:

So I got a chance to go get on it today, it was tryin to hit almost 15 psi and the boost needle was really jumpy, so i turned the mbc all the way out but its still runnin like 12psi, which is ok but the spring is only a 9lb lol

I think the bouncey boost needle was due to that janky ass coupler i had coming right off the turbo..

This one..



good thing when i was test fitting i knew i'd need a new coupler and ordered one, ebay for the win only took a few days and it had arrived at my friends, we didnt even know it was there an we were talkin about how it might be leaking an shit an his boy calls up at the shop an is like hey you got some funky blue hose thing in the mail, we were like WHOO HOO! cause we wernt expecting it till next week lol.

anyway heres the new one



had to trim about in inch off the 2.0" side, no biggy tho it fits great now



little top shot



you can see how its a tight fit, but whats new lol




I didnt notice the boost needle moving at all after the coupler change, it seemed steady, but still holding 12psi.. i think i'll take the mbc out an see how it does with out it..


I made a few virtual dyno runs, i dont know what to think, 2 of em are in the 320hp+ range and 270-280tq.. but that was with the boost leak or whatever.. i'll do some more runs soon an do a comparison to the one i made recently before the manifold swap.

im having some sort of stumbling issue, it doesnt happen all the time, usually when i do a 3rd gear pull from a low rpm around 5500-6500 it starts to stumble and will even pop a little out the tail pipe.. if i roll into it slowly or hammer it from a higher rpm it seems to pull fine though.. boost also seems to be holding steady now since i replaced that coupler, i also disconnected the mbc and the boost has settled around 9psi which is spring pressure.. and i haven't had it do that stumble thing since i took the mbc out, maybe im hitting the overboost protection shit?

idk.. hope i get it figured out soon tho..

virtual dyno is still showing power bein made in the 300s, an i lowered the boost haha

Good stuff man I cant wait to boost my VE now I have been following your thread very closely for a while now lol.