Thread: Lynch's 6spd / VE-T thread

hmm, well we'll see, like i said i might just keep it intact an set it aside for if i blow this one up i can throw it in an rebuild the current engine, OR just sell the head all the stuff i dont need to pay for the parts to build it up..

i wouldn't be so afraid of turning the boost up an see what this thing will really do if i had a backup engine lol

I have been running my roller rocker which is the weakest variant of the sr, right? As so it is said at least. First year of turbo was with a t25 and a calum base tune on a basic. Year two gt2871r on nistune with a street tune done by LikeTheMovies (thank you very much) wot afrs on the top end was a solid 12.0:1, midrange was about mid to high 11s, timing total was about 23 degrees on the last column, the de base tune on the nistune is way too aggressive for the poor old roller even to cruise on light load at 3500 rpms. Year three the same no change at all. Now I drive extremely aggressive and not afraid to push my car to its limits. I beat the shit out of it for three years 10k miles and now due to a leaky injector i decided to take it apart to put used old dets in. So what am I trying to say here? That if a roller rocker can be pushed so close to its limits with shitty internals than why cant a ve with oem vet pistons, det rods, acls, studs all around, and a vet gasket be pushed to break 500 whp? Dets do it all the time, isn't a ve superior to the det? For a budget build you can't ask for more, with the right turbo setup and a mist or two here and there or some e85 I can def see high numbers with that simple of a setup. Gio pushed a stock de with t25 to 345 whp and has not broken, that has stock internals on such a small turbo, why can't a nicely oem built to spec ve with a 2871r that breathes good for its small size achieve what my boy Lynch is looking for? Answer me those questions and I'll shut up. Lynch my bad for ranting out on your thread, just bothers me how some people think you should go over bored for something that a plain ol de can do. Carry on with your thread I won't interrupt anymore.

^^ I think you missed my point.

If forged internals are only $100 more than the stock stuff, why not splurge a little for the extra piece of mind??

Being an engineer by trade, I believe in factors of safety and in the real world where variables change constantly, I will hold true to this belief. As much as I LOVE building, I much prefer to be driving the damn thing! Missing HPDEs etc is not fun if you blow it up the night prior and loss all your entry fee, etc

So if you can increase that margin for a very small price (especially compared to what a minor mistake and completely wiping out a "budget" build will end up costing), why not?

Budget build and turbos DO NOT go in the same sentence, simple.

In addition it HAS been proven that the RR engines are only SLIGHTLY (if any) weaker than their older brothers with the ringlands being the culprit for most failures................Again, all in the tune

Also Gio pushed that T25 on E85 which plays a MAJOR role in why it made so much power/torque. Also, that turbo will be short lived at best no matter what fuel you end up using since even though the E85 burns cooler, the T25 itself is still pumping immense amounts of hot air and is above its peak RPM capacity (plus you need approximately 30-50% more fuel than before, etc), so that measuring stick does not commute. And not to mention if E85 isn't even available where you live.......

P.S you are NOT pushing the limits on any component (especially on the street) until you have circulated a track for a full 20mins without overheating, detonating, etc. Take your car to a trackday and come back with your assessment. I promise you it will overheat on the first hot lap (not to mention your tires would be garbage from all the wheelspin, the diff will overheat, and the gearbox would hate you) . A few full throttle blasts and pounding the limiter does not put nearly as much stress as wide open throttle for 10+ seconds at a time under full boost conditions trailing another vehicle sucking in all their hot mess!

P.S.S and to not DISCREDIT what the guys down south have done, the car dynoed at this level almost a year ago. I do not know where the car is or its current state, but if it lasted for more than 1000 miles (inclusive of drag and HPDEs) then you can make that statement about reliability when it comes to this car

Also, a VE is superior to the DE only because the head is where all the gains are made (and also twarts off detonation). A DE/DET piston/rod combo would be more "reliable" and forgiving than a VE engine (again ringland issues). Also, I never mentioned ANYWHERE in my post about the VET or his setup not being capable to satisfying his needs. Read the first 2 paragraphs above please.........

Sorry for the derailment Lynch!

xavi1320t your post makes me feel more confident in boosting my old RR with 120k miles. Once it blows (if it does) JDM RR it is. I already bought a disco to compliment it .



Real issue is the weaker valvetrain. I love loller rocker concept, but it doesn't seem like Nissan overbuilt them enough, maybe on JDM RR they did?



Even Autox will push the car to the limits, and that's usually 2 minutes tops WOTing it. This is why I gave up trying to build my daily to be a track car, I would have to run a super thick radiator that would not let the car be warm enough to daily drive, etc.

Lol no prob dude its all good.

But what's so bad about using the vet pistons on stock ve or det rods? Like I've said I'm not lookin for huge power. To me that's what I consider a budget build, even tho its not "built" it will still be something I put together with my own 2 hands and it'll hold the desired power level I want then why not?

Hell the only reason I'm not considering using benitos det pistons is because I want to leave room for changing to bigger cams in the future so I want pistons with valve reliefs lol

Depending on what I can get my hands on an how much I pay will reflect on what all I'll be able to afford.. I'm not really in a rush to get the engine built though, probably do this as a winter project.

Also cp pistons are not 100 more then VET pistons.. Greg sells the vet pistons for 60 each so X 4 is 240 an with rings is like 360 I think.. So over 200 cheaper.

Good post, @Boostlee.

@Vadim - Vadim you are correct. But to be more definitive, the issue with autox is the low speed (not enough flow to the radiator(s) (as in all car heat exchangers) and the constant on/off throttle conditions. Its not so bad however as it only lasts less than 2 minutes for the bigger courses.

Also, to twart the valvetrain issue, just keep the revs (and limiter) to minimum

@lynchfourtwenty - As I mentioned before, I have NO problem with a proper VET setup (I even asked a question about the ringlands, which was seemingly answered by xavi to confirm their reliability). But, my point - If something 2-4 times better presents itself for only a fraction more, the benefit/cost ratio goes up! Also, I am under the mind set "buy the correct parts once as compared to the "incorrect" (relatively speaking) parts twice over". And in that sense, you are thinking big picture as far as budget builds are concerned. If Ashton can get away with it, why not?? And I was quoting the price from xavi.
So a little math

VET pistons and rings (and wrist pins??) = circa $350 shipped ((60 x 4) + 90 + 20(shipping))
Eagle CRS5365N3D SR20 SR20DET Chromoly Forged Connecting Rods - $380 shipped (don't know your price)
Total = $700-$730 (depending on price)

CP Pistons Eagle Rods Combo for Nissan SR20 Silvia (Ashton's link) = 774 SHIPPED (and that is without Ashton's deal if he can get it)!

Look at your numbers again..........

On the highlighted part. I took that turbo off a z32 after they locked the motor up and the turbo was hard to spin. I lubed the crap out of it with pb blaster for a week, the year was 2001. It has not failed on me when I had it at 18psi on pump gas,then when I sprayed a 75 shot wet on it.In 2007 it was external gated and sold to 2 other customers and is currently on its 3rd customer still going strong. On all the cars I installed it on they never passed 16 psi,just when it was mines. Carry on.

Thank you for clearing that up Gio! But your numbers were on a DE, correct?? And although I know you guys have figured out how to properly run a log with a VE setup, would this turbo NOT be viable for any sort of VE build??

That's what I was getting at mostly

Gotcha.np