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Thread: School me on what this headgasket is saying...

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Posts: 21-30 of 31
2011-07-16 04:48:48
#21
They must have lowered the torque value because the set I did on No-LimitsB13's car was 85 ft-lbs as the final torque and torqued in 3 stages. 30 60 85. I would double check with Mazworx on that torque value.
2011-07-16 04:59:14
#22
Directions that came with kit.

2011-07-16 05:05:34
#23
yeah those are new instructions compared to when I did them about a year or so ago. My GE ones i torque to 25, loosen, 25, loosen, 25, loosen, 25, 50, 75 and have yet to have a problem with them. The studs themselves also get torqued down into the block not just hand tightened. 10 ft lbs on the studs themselves. The Mazworx studs are a stronger material than the GE ones and sure enough they had a higher torque value. They are holding good on his motor too soo far and no issues installing them. I wonder why they lowered the value. Hmmm
2011-07-16 05:14:51
#24
and it also says hand tight , but i did a little better than that.
2011-07-17 18:17:25
#25
I torque my apr's at 85
2011-07-17 18:23:20
#26
yeah these arent quite like the old arps. These are a properly designed stud that bottoms in the block. They are just made of the arp2000 material so Mazworx calls them Mazworx ARP's.
2011-07-17 19:36:16
#27
Same tq spec I used with my Mazworx studs.65ftlbs
2011-07-21 00:21:59
#28
Any suggestions on breaking in the headgasket? (no boost, some boost, who cares?)

Got it started today. Bad news is idling high (~2k), have some vacuum leaks (i hope this is why its idling high), have a fuel leak, and need to check the base timing.

If idle doesnt come down after fixing those things, im not sure what to do.
2011-07-21 00:49:11
#29
no breakin required on the headgasket.
2011-07-21 21:35:05
#30
vacuum leak was the high idle.

But runs well. other than that.
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