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Thread: brian crower cams very loud on gtir

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Posts: 11-20 of 37
2011-05-06 23:36:31
#11
Originally Posted by mike4387
thanks for the info, I actually was just looking at that info on useing the filler gauge and i think im going to go that route and see what i can do, can def tell they are loose because i can wiggle them up and down a little with my finger with the cams bolted all the way down. guess i will just have to play with it and see if i can get it going.
one thing i dont understand im running a bigger cam with a larger lobe how is it that there more space between rocker and lobe now than with the stock cams?


The larger lobe is the "peak" of the lobe size and the wider duration is the width of the lobe, but the base circle height (i.e the part of the cam that doesn't touch the rocker during the compression cycle) remains the same as stock. Because every lash pad and cam lobe wears minutely over time, the clearances naturally increase. When you put a brand new cam in, they will, minutely, be different to the factory cam that was in there.

We're only talking thousandths of an inch of course, but in this case, its enough to create a loud mechanical tapping noise not only as the cam comes in contact with the pad, but as the cam comes off the pad i think that the rocker arm will naturally want to continue to move upwards and tap on the cam as it just lifts off the valve stems slightly.
2011-05-07 01:01:46
#12
Originally Posted by Cozzm0_AU
The larger lobe is the "peak" of the lobe size and the wider duration is the width of the lobe, but the base circle height (i.e the part of the cam that doesn't touch the rocker during the compression cycle) remains the same as stock. Because every lash pad and cam lobe wears minutely over time, the clearances naturally increase. When you put a brand new cam in, they will, minutely, be different to the factory cam that was in there.

We're only talking thousandths of an inch of course, but in this case, its enough to create a loud mechanical tapping noise not only as the cam comes in contact with the pad, but as the cam comes off the pad i think that the rocker arm will naturally want to continue to move upwards and tap on the cam as it just lifts off the valve stems slightly.


Okay i understand what your saying, reason i bought the stage 2s was so that i could just drop them in and not have to do any other work. now that i am going to have to create shims i might as well just go ahead and swap the head out for my built head with bc stage 3s. it will be easier to reshim since its already out
2011-05-07 01:08:06
#13
Just saw your pm man. I had the same deal when puttin them in my motor, however I never got around to re-shimming before selling the car. You can drive the car as is and deal with the noise, but you risk throwing a rocker arm if you take the revs too high.

Sounds like you have the right idea just swapping in the built head and dealing with the shims with the other head out of the car.
2011-05-07 01:22:54
#14
Originally Posted by mike4387
Okay i understand what your saying, reason i bought the stage 2s was so that i could just drop them in and not have to do any other work. now that i am going to have to create shims i might as well just go ahead and swap the head out for my built head with bc stage 3s. it will be easier to reshim since its already out


Yeh unfortunately that's the downside of the GTI-R's setup is that no matter what, you'd have to be pretty lucky to swap a set of cams (even replacing the stock cams with another set) and not have to reshim anything.
2011-05-07 04:01:36
#15
Originally Posted by V1rg1n1azf1nest
Just saw your pm man. I had the same deal when puttin them in my motor, however I never got around to re-shimming before selling the car. You can drive the car as is and deal with the noise, but you risk throwing a rocker arm if you take the revs too high.

Sounds like you have the right idea just swapping in the built head and dealing with the shims with the other head out of the car.


yeah i was gonna just run the stage 2s for a bit then swap the built head with stage 3s when i got tired of it but since i gotta reshim i might as well reshim the built head and just be done with it all at once, thanks for getting back to me on it man

yeah cozzmo the GTIR has a lot of downside its a pain in the *** none of the parts are the same as other sr20s
Last edited by mike4387 on 2011-05-07 at 04-05-59.
2011-05-11 20:31:35
#16
Hydraulic cams in a solid setup will def. be loud. BC doesnt offer solid specific cams. Tomei does and HKS
2011-05-11 21:16:30
#17
yeap tried to reshim the valves to close the gap between the lobe and rocker arms and no good it is still ticking mabe not quite as loud but its still there. i check clearances and they are all with spec. think im just going back to stock as far as iv been told u cant use the brian crower cams because they are hydraulic lifter cams and they wont work on gtir. U can use them but they will be noisy and from what iv been told eventually they will break or bend something just a matter of time.
Last edited by mike4387 on 2011-05-11 at 21-48-03.
2011-05-12 00:38:15
#18
went back to stocks and ticking has gone away im going sell these and get a set of jwt s3m and go from there thanks for all the helps guys.
2011-05-12 01:02:52
#19
Imo, that is the best thing you could have done. I really didn't notice THAT much of a difference from stock. The s3m's should suit the motor much better. BC stage 2's are just the cheap upgrade.
2011-05-12 20:30:21
#20
Originally Posted by V1rg1n1azf1nest
Imo, that is the best thing you could have done. I really didn't notice THAT much of a difference from stock. The s3m's should suit the motor much better. BC stage 2's are just the cheap upgrade.


yeah agreed i didnt notice much of a power diff either and i couldnt stand the ticking it made my car sound like the motor was falling apart. hopefully i can find a set of used s3's they have a hefty price tag brand new. thanks again for the help man
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