Thread: B15 W/ B14 ECU Conversion Starting Problem

I've been going over this for a few months now, so I want to ask for some additional input.

I did a B14 ECU conversion on my 2000 SE. I'm running a JWT ECU programmed for a Cobra MAF and 50# injectors (MSD). The turbo setup is a GTi-R manifold with a GT28RS and an external gate. The recirc valve is a Tial QR.

The problem I am having:

When I go to start the car it will crank, but not start. Almost randomly it will "burp" like there is some combustion and the RPMs will jump a bit, but it won't start. Eventually it will start, but this is usually after 3-4 attempts at starting it. This may be a fluke but I feel like it gets better results after 3-4 attempts if I push the accelerator pedal to the floor.

One the engine starts it runs well. It idles at around 1200 RPM (High, I know) in addition to accelerating and decelerating (on and off boost) without any drama.

Here is what I have checked:

- Spark to each cylinder (no issues here)
- Replaced and re-gapped plugs
- Used Nissan Data Scan to check for codes through the consult port (none are present)
- Fuel pump primes the feed line to 40psi

Another issue I am having is that my pusher fans that are wired to the factory wiring are not kicking on. Nissan Data Scan is getting a water temperature reading for the factory coolant temp sensor (not the dummy gauge sensor) so that's working. I just thought that was worth noting since I know the this can sometimes cause issues.

Any thoughts?

Did you switch to a B14 intake manifold or a B14 IAC on an adapter plate of some sort? If not, It could be the idle air control valve stuck in the closed position or just randomly changing positions. The B14 ECU controls idle with a solenoid valve and the B15 ECU controls idle with a stepper motor (the amount of air allowed in may affect start up).

Yep, I did the whole B14 conversion on the intake side (Mainfold, TB, TPS, IAC, etc).

I think the issue may have been a blown fuse under the dash. I was able to get it to start several times in a row without issue. My current battery is dead from sitting for three years so once I get the new battery installed I will have a better idea of if the fused really solved the issue.

Maybe you need to use the B14 coolant temp sensor.

That's a possibility as well. Although I have Nissan Data Scan and the ECU is seeing the CTS and is pulling a temp that matches up to my coolant temperature gauge.

No.