Thread: Should I Window Weld Motor Mounts?

I've told you how to crack this nut 3 or 4 times.

Also stop being a baby.

Yup exactly what I got.



:o I'm curious if Traction bars would be enough, I guess there is no replacement for a non-moving engine.

I'm about to pull the motor mounts out and window weld them. Guess I should go get started .

stoooooooooooop
dont do it....


i did it in my old nx...1 year later went to put in prothane and the window weld was stillllll gooey in the inside....

ive seen 240 guys do this......post up pics

Windo-weld is shit. Get real urethane. 60 shore urethane will transmit less vibration and last whereas windo-weld tends to fail because its not meant to bear loads.

The NVH comes mainly from the prothanes contacting the brackets connecting the chassis/cabin directly to the engine. If you make your mounts so there is some space in there it makes all the difference.

Or like I said you could stop being a little sissy.

sounds high maintenance..

add the $4 wheel hop aid as well. a lot of the b15 guys have been doing that and suprisingly it works great. put 2 washers between the frame and crossmember, and one on the outside. or just buy these.

http://www.myspec-v.com/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=828

Anyone here tried these ^^^ out?

i used the window weld and it worked amazing. Way better than my prothanes. They held up great, but there is a right way to do it. You have to clean your old mounts really really well and dry them. Don't use carb spray or brake cleaner. Give them a full day min to cure and put them back on. I still have my old homemade motor mounts.

I'm wondering how much I should do before doing too much. From what I remember hearing before, it's a good idea to fill the empty space in the motor mounts to simply avoid them being ripped out due to torque, correct?