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Thread: Upcoming VET engine build

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Posts: 11-20 of 36
2010-12-12 03:13:41
#11
Why run so much compression to get those #s? I mean if you want to go fast more than a few times at that power level you have to do a lot of drivetrain building right? Why make the engine a liability as well?

You know me though I'm no innovator. I'd just turn up the boost, bolt-ons, suspension, brakes, rims etc and call it good. GL.
2010-12-12 18:56:14
#12
Sweet 400hp @ 12psi like the honda's do. Your in luck 91B13 the last few manifolds that Protech have made have been bottom mounts for GTi-R's.
2011-03-19 19:58:00
#13
So just a update on what will be done here in the next couple months. I've been talking

with Mazworx and they are telling me that 12.5:1 pistons cannot be ran. So with that I

will be running the 9.0:1 pistons out to 90mm. Also have decided to just go ahead and

get the head completely worked over. Most likely will start out on the stock VE cams and

then move from there after a few good dyno sessions. Still up in the air about which

intake manifold to go with, I've got a couple in mind. Most likely will be running a 6262.

Also the manley rods will be out of the picture now that I have a set of Crower I beams.

Also contemplated throwing a 91 or 92mm crank in it but we will see. Just thought I'd

update you guys.





Chris.
2011-03-19 20:14:47
#14
Originally Posted by 91B13DET
^^Ya what he said. VE bottom end doesn't even begin to have the strength needed for

the amount of whp I'm going for. First time I hit boost it would crinkle those rods. I'm

shooting for over 650whp. My Pulsar is running right now with the stockish engine, I have a

spare GTiR block here I am building for it.







Chris.


thats not true....i have a 700+hp ve motor...with a ve bottom end.
2011-03-19 20:16:54
#15
What's so "VE" about it...? If you car is making over 700whp then I will have to say that

it doesn't have the stock VE rods.





Chris.
2011-03-19 20:45:20
#16
Obviously he doesn't have Ve rods. I don't even think he'd be using DET or GTiR rods for 700whp. Maybe that's wrong but I'd imagine he is referring to the block? Dunno.
2011-03-19 21:07:51
#17
Originally Posted by 91B13DET
What's so "VE" about it...? If you car is making over 700whp then I will have to say that

it doesn't have the stock VE rods.





Chris.


what i meant is ve block along with ve crank. of course i have forged pistons and rods im just saying ve bottom can do it, just not in its stock form.
if i were to do it from scratch, id definitely use the gtir bottom end tho (block and crank) just to get piece of mind with the wider bearings. thats the only advantage i see over the ve bottom end because everything will be forged either way. also the ve block does require work to fit the awd transfer case.
2011-03-19 21:22:18
#18
Originally Posted by b13fever
what i meant is ve block along with ve crank. of course i have forged pistons and rods im just saying ve bottom can do it, just not in its stock form.
if i were to do it from scratch, id definitely use the gtir bottom end tho (block and crank) just to get piece of mind with the wider bearings. thats the only advantage i see over the ve bottom end because everything will be forged either way. also the ve block does require work to fit the awd transfer case.


Besides the fact that this is going into a GTi-R so a VE bottom won't work with the awd.
2011-03-20 04:36:45
#19
If you go with the 6262 get the V-band in V-band out .82 back housing. With the other mods you mentioned you will make close to (if not over) 700hp at 30psi. If you can get E85 I would recommend going that route. The SR16ve cams work good also.
2011-03-20 04:58:50
#20
Originally Posted by b13fever

if i were to do it from scratch, id definitely use the gtir bottom end tho (block and crank) just to get piece of mind with the wider bearings. thats the only advantage i see over the ve bottom end because everything will be forged either way. also the ve block does require work to fit the awd transfer case.


Or... have your rods made with tangs to support the 17mm or 19mm bearings. That way you can use either ones you want. That's what I did, cost about $80 in machine work on my forged rods.
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