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Thread: Last last questions - I promise

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Posts: 31-35 of 35
2010-06-15 05:55:42
#31
So, how bad is this? First time for everything....hope it works:

2010-06-15 12:02:31
#32
I've done something like that before but not that bad. I didn't go past the middle of the seal. I don't think there's much you can do other than just giving it a try. The seal might not work out and you might get a perpetual leak, and the size of the oil drain is going to be much smaller than the hole because about half of it will be covered up by the upper oil pan.
I dunno man... You're kinda screwed.

Might as well give it a shot though. You live and you learn.
2010-06-15 14:09:44
#33
So do you believe that the seal wont work or the oil drain will not be big enough? What is the flow of oil like coming out of the turbo?
2010-06-15 14:19:55
#34
I think you're gunna be hit or miss on the seal. You'll never know until you try. It might work.

As for the size of the oil drain... It also might be adequate depending on what kind of flow you're dealing with. You can always make it better by opening up the hole wider (on the top side) on the end close to the girdle (although that seems very hard to do) or you could notch out a matching section in the upper oil pan if you'd like. That might help. Or it might make things worse as far as trying to seal that part of the engine against oil leaks.

Keep in mind any extra grey RTV you put around that area to seal it is also going to block the oil drain some. You could block the entire drain passage with grey RTV if you're not careful.

When the turbo is not spinning or spinning slowly the oil draining out of the turbo center section is like a dribble. It has no pressure and it leaks out in a steady but weak stream like you've barely turned on your sink faucet. Once the turbo starts spinning and the revs increase in the engine and you get more oil pressure the flow increases maybe twice as much but still has no pressure behind it. It's also been whipped into a hot froth so it drains a steady, frothy stream of oil and air bubbles. Because of the air bubbles the volume draining maybe quadruples compared to what it drains like at idle.

If it were me, I'd have pulled my hair out by now. But then hopefully I'd calm down and then I think I'd decide to notch out the upper oil pan to match and then be very careful with the grey RTV when it comes time to seal the upper oil pan. I'd just hope for no leaks, or a very minimal leak. I wouldn't want to put the oil pan on without notching it out. You'd lose half of your drain flow and that could be trouble. Much more trouble than a simple, slow oil leak.
2010-06-15 21:25:38
#35
Originally Posted by hobbs
W10s came in at 7psi and W11s came in at 9psi. Which model did you have?


I don't know. The turbo tag came off when I was replacing all the exhaust gaskets, but it uses the old school high port oil filters. So my boost pressure and my oil filters are conflicting each other. Strange. I'm pretty sure I have a ball bearing turbo. Maybe I have a combo avenir. w10 engine with w11 turbo? I never realized there was much of a difference. I know it's an avenir motor, I had to cut the oil pan and the turbo oulet was facing down, not up like a blue bird. It had a silver v/c on it too. I bought it from tigerjapanese, first motor they sent me was a tar ball, next one was brown but ok under the v/c.
It was only $530-570 shipped when I bought it so I'm happy.

got my info here http://www.sr20-forum.com/turbo/1245-nissan-w10-w11-sr20det-avenir-facts.html
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