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Thread: Last last questions - I promise

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Posts: 11-20 of 35
2010-06-08 16:54:34
#11
The injectors that I bought are in great shape, should I still buy new Orings? Also, is it ok to have the oil restrictor on the nissport end of things?
2010-06-08 17:07:43
#12
Yes and yes.
2010-06-08 17:41:18
#13
Originally Posted by hobbs
Ben your a god, thank you for taking the time to reply

Here is a more broken down parts list:

Oil Feed:
Nissport block > .065 oil restrictor > 1/8 to -3an fitting > 46" -3an line > 7/16-24 I.F. to -3an fitting > W10 T25
I assume all the male/female parts line up right.
Looks good.

Originally Posted by hobbs
Oil Return:
T25 1/2ntp flange > 1/2ntp barb > 4ish inches of 5/8th tubing > 1/2ntp barb > SR20DE block
I'm sure you know you'll need hose clamps. Looks good.

Originally Posted by hobbs
Coolant:
W10 T25 > 14mm banjo to 3/8th barb > 3ft 3/8th coolant hose > 3/8th elbow > DE throttle body > 3/8th elbow > 3ft 3/8th coolant hose > 14mm banjo to 3/8th barb W10 T25
Perfect.


Originally Posted by hobbs
Wastegate signal:
W11 turbo outlet > 4mm vacuum hose > W10 wastegate

BOV signal
Brake booster line > 3/8th to 1/4th tee > 4mm vacuum hose > 1/4th tee to electronic boost gauge > stock W10 BOV

Fuel:
300zx filter > stock FPR > 370cc injectors
Great.

Originally Posted by hobbs

Exhaust:
SR20DE block > SR20DE exhaust gasket > W10 turbo mani > T25 exhaust gasket > W10 T25 > Jpipe gasket > W10 jpipe > 2.5" 3 bolt gasket > JYG 2.5" downpipe > 2 bolt 2.5 gasket > stock cat > 2.5" all the way back > greddy SP
The SR20VE exhaust gasket that goes between the head and the manifold is a multi-layer steel piece that is better than the stock DE "paper" gasket and is reusable. You should consider it. Everything else sounds good.


Originally Posted by hobbs
Don't know what else there is to list So I will need a nipple on the charge piping for the main idle control valve ?
Yes and it's 1/2" or something substantial.

Originally Posted by hobbs
Also, will the oil restrictor be ok in the nissport block and not right at the turbo?
I thought about that. It should be fine way back there.

Originally Posted by hobbs
As for the injectors, how can I be sure they are seated and sealed correctly?
Install them into the rail and then while everything is still in pieces turn the key to "ON" to prime the fuel system. Watch for leaks by the injectors. (The small end of the injector is typically the hard part to get sealed.) Then crank the car over and watch for even spray from all four injectors and again check for leaking. You may experience small dribbles or heavy spray from some of the injectors while the fuel system is pressurized. If you do then re-seat them again.
Don't let anything get sucked into the intake manifold while you crank the engine. A large shop rag can be draped over the manifold intake ports while you crank to act as a filter and catch anything that tries to get sucked in. Don't let the rag get sucked in. =]
2010-06-08 17:44:15
#14
Originally Posted by 95b14
I had to remove the top half of the manifold like 4-5 times from trying to make other o rings work.
Same thing here. Used o-rings are a bitch. I installed everything without checking and had a massive leak that flooded everything quickly. After taking things apart it made so much more sense to check how well things were sealing with my method above. I would have had to install and disassemble so many times until I got it right. It would have been a loooooong day. As it turned out it was merely a looong day. =]
2010-06-08 17:52:31
#15
Originally Posted by BenFenner
Oh God. That thread is not meant to be a "How To". Holy crap. There's decent info in there but there are many missing details when it comes to turbocharging one of these engines.

I don't know much about turbocharging an engine, but this may help (?).

Turbo Guides - SR20 Forum

Hobbs, maybe you have already read that? If not, it may help. There are actually "How To's" in there.
2010-06-08 17:57:55
#16
Originally Posted by Shawn
I don't know much about turbocharging an engine, but this may help (?).

Turbo Guides - SR20 Forum

Hobbs, maybe you have already read that? If not, it may help. There are actually "How To's" in there.


Agreed. Especially make sure to read, "HOW *NOT* TO: How not to go about a turbo install"

Soooo many mistakes I see on this forum come from people being too hasty about their install that they could have avoided by reading that one simple thread.
2010-06-08 18:03:43
#17
Originally Posted by BenFenner
The SR20VE exhaust gasket that goes between the head and the manifold is a multi-layer steel piece that is better than the stock DE "paper" gasket and is reusable. You should consider it. Everything else sounds good.


I thought those had the crush lips on there so once they are used they are done?

Originally Posted by BenFenner

Don't let anything get sucked into the intake manifold while you crank the engine. A large shop rag can be draped over the manifold intake ports while you crank to act as a filter and catch anything that tries to get sucked in. Don't let the rag get sucked in. =]


Why would I need to crank the car, dosnt the fuel pump prime in acc mode?


Originally Posted by Shawn
I don't know much about turbocharging an engine, but this may help (?).

Turbo Guides - SR20 Forum

Hobbs, maybe you have already read that? If not, it may help. There are actually "How To's" in there.


Shawn B, I read through most of that stuff, not much info on the specifics that I was looking for.
2010-06-08 18:10:51
#18
Originally Posted by hobbs
I thought those had the crush lips on there so once they are used they are done?
They do have crush zones from what I remember seeing, but I've always heard they are reusable. *shrug*

Originally Posted by hobbs
Why would I need to crank the car, dosnt the fuel pump prime in acc mode?
Prime the system to look for leaks first. Then crank the car to make sure all injectors are firing and firing a good pattern. Then check for leaks again because I've seen leaks happen only after the engine was cranked and the injectors pulsed. It's just a good thing to do to be extra sure you have no leaks that's all.
2010-06-08 18:48:02
#19
Stock FPR and pump should be fine for a low boost setup correct? Thanks again for all your help Ben. Also when I crank the engine it will pull oil through the system? I just want to make sure I am getting oil to the turbo before I start the car.
2010-06-08 18:52:43
#20
Originally Posted by blairellis
Agreed. Especially make sure to read, "HOW *NOT* TO: How not to go about a turbo install"

Soooo many mistakes I see on this forum come from people being too hasty about their install that they could have avoided by reading that one simple thread.


I really don't like that thread. This part:

Step 2: Get the proper JWT ECU/injectors/MAF combination and install them, NA. Run that around for a week or so, again, WITH NO TURBO SYSTEM. If this runs well, then go to step 3.


If your running big turbo injectors with a map that is made for a turbo car, why would you run it N/A? To me it seems like it wouldnt run too well.
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