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Thread: Last last questions - I promise

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2010-06-07 04:41:49
#1
Last last questions - I promise
After spending the last hour and a half reading through Ben's build thread I'm feeling a bit discouraged and kinda like I'm getting in a bit over my head. Any answers to the following questions would be great and extremely helpful.

1. Lowport DE - You have three ports on the intake tract, one goes to the crankcase vent, other goes to EGR vac and the other one goes down and sticks to the firewall. What is this and where does it go? Can it see boost or is that a big no-no?

2. PCV Valve - From what I have read it cannot see boost, therefor I have to plug the side that goes into the intake mani and vent the VC side?

- Is the PCV valve even connected to the intake mani?
- Boost apps, where does it go?

3. Injectors - Is it easy to get at the injectors on a lowport? From the FSM it is only 5 bolts and then it splits in half, is there anything else that I need to remove to be able to get at the injectors?
2010-06-07 04:49:18
#2
the pcv valve is a one way valve, it only lets pressure out, lots of people keep it going to the intake

The firewall hose goes to your brake booster. It should already have a one way valve on it, only allowing vac. The only other thing I can think of is this might be your idle air control valve bypass hose. Turn the engine on and let it idle. Squeeze the hose with some needle nose, if it dies, that's what it is.

I remember taking my low port intake apart out of the car and it seemed like a pain. Can't remember why.


Just take things slow and keep reading. Make sure you have everything you need for the install, because you are going to forget something. It will all be worth it once you get it running. I hope you have another car to drive, because it is not a one day job unless you've done it before.
2010-06-07 05:04:31
#3
So can the brake booster line see boost? Or does that need to go back into the intake? I am planning on using the stock DET intake tube and it only has a line for the crank case vent.

Parts I have right infront of me:

W10 T25 with mani and jpipe
W10 Stock intake tube
W10 Stock BOV
T25 downpipe 2.5"
Exhaust gaskets from the block to the cat
Lowport mani gasket
Calum Basic ecu
46" -3an oil feed line
Nissport oil adapter
ATP turbo .65 oil restrictor
1/8th to -3an fitting
7/16-24 I.F. to -3an fitting(turbo side)
6' 3/8th tubing for coolant
3/8th 90* elbow (x2)
14mm banjo to 3/8 barb
1/2NPT to 5/8th barb
45/64 drill bit
1/2 NPT tap

In route:
370cc injectors
Charge piping
4mm vacuum tubing


Am I missing anything? Took all next week off to get this done, so I'll have almost 9 days to do it.

Thanks,
Jake
2010-06-07 05:16:40
#4
Actually...

Does the brake booster plug into the intake mani? From Vadim's photo, even though its a highport, it seems like the second tube from the intake tube is for the IACV. Is this correct for a na lowport aswell?

2010-06-07 13:37:03
#5
If you are going to use the stock intake boot, I hope it's going to be before the turbo. The brake booster line can see boost as long as it has the one way valve. It should allow air to flow out of the booster but not in.

You will need lots of zip ties, any vac line that isn't secured has the chance of blowing off. I put them on, then get some needle nose and twist on the line a few more clicks, haven't had anything blow off, but I'm only running 15 psi max.
2010-06-07 14:22:08
#6
Originally Posted by hobbs
After spending the last hour and a half reading through Ben's build thread
Oh God. That thread is not meant to be a "How To". Holy crap. There's decent info in there but there are many missing details when it comes to turbocharging one of these engines.

Originally Posted by hobbs
I'm feeling a bit discouraged and kinda like I'm getting in a bit over my head.
Don't get discouraged. It's not that hard. You seem quite competent and you're asking the right questions so you should be just fine. Just keep asking the questions. I'll try to answer some. My apologies if skcusloa already answered some of them already.

Originally Posted by hobbs
1. Lowport DE - You have three ports on the intake tract, one goes to the crankcase vent, other goes to EGR vac and the other one goes down and sticks to the firewall. What is this and where does it go? Can it see boost or is that a big no-no?
I assume you're talking about the three ports on the rubber section before the throttle body. You are correct about the crankcase vent and the EGR tube (the EGR is the tiny one) but the other big one is for the idle control valve. It can see boost, yes. That is fine, and that's what I did with mine. It could actually end up being a boost leak if it doesn't see boost I think. (The pressure could possibly leave the intake plenum through the idle control valve and out the idle intake tube if it doesn't see boost.)
Just to be clear, the crankcase vent tube can't see boost, and I actually don't know about the EGR one I just removed it all together.

Originally Posted by hobbs
2. PCV Valve - From what I have read it cannot see boost, therefor I have to plug the side that goes into the intake mani and vent the VC side?
You're correct in that the valve cover shouldn't see boost through the PCV valve line but you don't have to worry about that because the PCV valve is one-way only and it won't let boost into the valve cover so you are safe there. Just leave it hooked up to the intake plenum like it is from the factory.

Originally Posted by hobbs
Is the PCV valve even connected to the intake mani?
Yes it goes from the top-left of the valve cover to the intake plenum.
Originally Posted by hobbs
Boost apps, where does it go?
Just leave it where it is. It will be fine.

Originally Posted by hobbs
3. Injectors - Is it easy to get at the injectors on a lowport?
Not exactly. Not as easy as on a highport anyway.

Originally Posted by hobbs
From the FSM it is only 5 bolts and then it splits in half, is there anything else that I need to remove to be able to get at the injectors?
Yes the intake manifold splits in half with those 5 bolts/nuts. You will also need to or want to remove the intake boot from the throttle body, the throttle cable will need moving I think, and you'll have to remove a hose or two from the intake manifold to fully be able to get the top off. Really just go slow and start to remove the top half of the intake manifold and you'll quickly find out what else needs to be removed because it will be preventing you from lifting the top half of the intake manifold up and out of the way.

Originally Posted by hobbs
So can the brake booster line see boost?
Yes. It has a built in one-way check valve as well and that prevents the brake booster from seeing boost. However even without the check valve the brake booster would be fine with boost. It just wouldn't provide any braking help while transitioning from boost to vacuum. Keep the check valve in place (it is close to the booster hidden behind a mount holding the line to the fire wall). Just go ahead and leave the brake booster stuff alone and keep the factory line going along the firewall and eventually connecting to the intake manifold at the back by the ECU grounds.

Originally Posted by hobbs
Or does that need to go back into the intake?
Nope leave it alone.

Originally Posted by hobbs
I am planning on using the stock DET intake tube and it only has a line for the crank case vent.
You're going to need to figure something else out for the idle tube then. And ditch the EGR.

Originally Posted by hobbs
Am I missing anything?
You're always missing something. It sounds like you have most of the bases covered but trust me you'll realize you're missing something. It might not be major and you might be able to buy it local with no problem but just realize unless your list is 200 items long you're going to be missing something. Break it down into sub-systems if you want to make 100% sure you have everything. Tell us exactly what you're doing for the turbo oil feed, and the drain, and the water lines for the turbo, and the charge pipe system, and the exhaust system, and the fuel system. I mean you don't have to get into that level of detail if you don't want. You will be fine. I'm just saying there's washers and Teflon tape and random clips and AN adapters and zipties you're going to want to have. Make sure you have new, high quality injector O-rings! Get extras! And be prepared to struggle with getting the injectors to seal properly. Some type of lube would help but I don't know what type of lube is safe. I did mine dry and it was a nightmare.

Originally Posted by hobbs
Took all next week off to get this done, so I'll have almost 9 days to do it.
Sounds like a plan. Honestly you could probably install a few things early like maybe the injectors and ECU. That might be nice to do those things first and take smaller bites. And make sure those are working before moving on.

Originally Posted by hobbs
Actually...

Does the brake booster plug into the intake mani?
Yes it does. Back by the ECU grounds or maybe a little to the left. You will see it connects to a hard line on the firewall.

Originally Posted by hobbs
From Vadim's photo, even though its a highport, it seems like the second tube from the intake tube is for the IACV. Is this correct for a na lowport aswell?
If I'm following you correctly, then yes you're right. Like I said above, that second large tube that connects after the throttle body eventually makes its way to the main idle control valve (and also the cold idle control valve I think).
2010-06-07 16:14:38
#7
Ben your a god, thank you for taking the time to reply

Here is a more broken down parts list:

Oil Feed:
Nissport block > .065 oil restrictor > 1/8 to -3an fitting > 46" -3an line > 7/16-24 I.F. to -3an fitting > W10 T25

Oil Return:
T25 1/2ntp flange > 1/2ntp barb > 4ish inches of 5/8th tubing > 1/2ntp barb > SR20DE block

Coolant:
W10 T25 > 14mm banjo to 3/8th barb > 3ft 3/8th coolant hose > 3/8th elbow > DE throttle body > 3/8th elbow > 3ft 3/8th coolant hose > 14mm banjo to 3/8th barb W10 T25

Wastegate signal:
W11 turbo outlet > 4mm vacuum hose > W10 wastegate

BOV signal
Brake booster line > 3/8th to 1/4th tee > 4mm vacuum hose > 1/4th tee to electronic boost gauge > stock W10 BOV

Fuel:
300zx filter > stock FPR > 370cc injectors

Exhaust:
SR20DE block > SR20DE exhaust gasket > W10 turbo mani > T25 exhaust gasket > W10 T25 > Jpipe gasket > W10 jpipe > 2.5" 3 bolt gasket > JYG 2.5" downpipe > 2 bolt 2.5 gasket > stock cat > 2.5" all the way back > greddy SP


Don't know what else there is to list So I will need a nipple on the charge piping for the main idle control valve ? Also, will the oil restrictor be ok in the nissport block and not right at the turbo? As for the injectors, how can I be sure they are seated and sealed correctly?
2010-06-07 16:38:53
#8
Yes you will need a nipple. I used a fitting that you would stick on an air tool, because it's what I had.
Don't know about the nissport, I did an avenir swap.

The injectors fit REALLY tight in the fuel rail. As long as they're flush they'll be ok. I used silicone spray lube to make them go in easier. It's probably not necessary but any time I take apart an intake with metal intake gaskets, I spray this copper spray gasket stuff on there, it's really sticky and I think it prevents future problems.
2010-06-07 16:43:29
#9
skculoa thanks for your help, did some more searching and found out the right ways. If anyone else cares to know:

Testing: Once you've got them all in place, fit the caps and it's time for testing. Firstly, turn the IGN on and let the fuel pump prime the system. Then check carefully for external leaks. This part is usually OK. The problem is if the bottom O rings haven't sealed properly. Unfortunately this is quite common. You can usually tell by the way the engine idles. If it starts up and settles into a smooth idle then things are fine. If the idle is uneven (power is down on one or more cylinders) then there is a problem. Sometimes idle will only be slightly affected and the car will drive fine otherwise. Sometimes they will barely idle.


SR20 Setup Tips

and here is Andreas Miko's write up how to remove the injectors:
http://www.sr20-forum.com/general-maintenance/9282-how-hell-do-you-get-these-injectors-out.html
2010-06-08 16:08:37
#10
Your parts list sounds pretty straight. I'll repeat what Ben said, do yourself a favor and get NEW O-rings for the injectors. I didnt when I did 370s in my lowport and it ended up biting me in the ass. I had to remove the top half of the manifold like 4-5 times from trying to make other o rings work. Just get oem nissan ones. That being said, its not that hard to get off. Theres a coolant hose on the passenger side that was a pain for me to get to. That and be careful not to drop those plastic washers under the fuel rail. Turbo lowports are where its at btw, you'll be happier you have that head if you throw a highport intake cam in it later on. Good luck and take your time.
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