Thread: Need help again

use the cast aluminum 95-98 sr20de.

Well anyway, I guess Ill give an update. I got the car running and everything working, still need a maf and iat sensor and got everything down to only 2 codes: IAT sensor and p1400 (manufacturer defect?). So thats good, Ill have to get the car on the road to get the drive cycles completed.

I ran the heater hoses and fixed my knock sensor yesterday. So all thats left is to finish bleeding all the brakes and get the car moving.

Alright, car wouldnt start for a while so after troubleshooting the ignition system I found out the distributor rotor came loose along with the CAS disc. The disc is warped.

I put it all back together but it seems like the timing wont advance. I say that because when I gassed it the rpms jerked around and then the motor died...black smoke out of the exhaust too lol

I measured the resistance across the ignition coil to be 2.2 ohms and the power resistor was -2.996 ohms(??)

Any ideas?

IAT is only for diagnosis. The ECU doesn't use the IAT in any calculations per the FSM. I plugged mine back in to get rid of the code w/out zip tying it and it was so heavy it ripped off the wires and fell on the highway somewhere lol. Still got IAT code ;/

BTW, Consult cable is great for diagnosing problems like yours. I bought a Consult cable on Ebay for like $30.

-G

Is it hard to use the program for it?

I just left mine hanging by the bov to get sort of the right reading

Like I said, the IAT doesn't do anything. The ECU doesn't use it for anything important.

Just secure somewhere safe so it doesn't rip off like mine did and look somewhere else for your problem.

Consult cable is pretty easy to use. It's basically what Nissan mechanics use to diagnose issues. Will give you a lot of diagnostic information and will also allow you to go into timing mode w/a click of a button.