Thread: Interesting find with Valvoline Oil

The Rotella has a very nice cleanup package. You won't have to worry about any sludge buildup with all the anti-soot additives that keep things clean.

The Rotella 5w40 is really really stout. After a 250 mile road trip, and 30 drag passes, it still held up for the drive home without losing viscosity and dropping oil pressure. Even the VR1 couldn't hold up to that.

For me it is the German castrol or the Rotella. Good stuff.

You must be rich! Oils color has nothing to do with it's effectiveness. If you're that worried about clean oil, you should probably find an alternate method of draining your pan.

I'd bet you'd freak out if you looked at your furnace air filters right now

I clean my furnace filter weekly , I have 2 german shephards though , they shed once a year for 365 days ....

+1. I'm using this stuff and have gone 5000 between oil changes without any measurable consumption. This stuff helped me find a leaky distributor o-ring

What is the difference between "german" and "non-german" Castrol. I have been using Castrol (switched from mobil 1) for the past couple oil changes and like it better than mobil 1. But I don't know if I have been using the german or non-german version. I buy it at Wal-mart if that means anything.

fwi am reading is that 'Geman Castrol' only comes in 0w-30 or in other words...it's just the 0-30w version. I can't see how the German made 0-30w is any better than the US made 0w-30. They are both 'European Forumla' and made for Mercedes Specs and both have the same formulas.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=718643

From Castrol Site:


SAE 0W–30:
Castrol SYNTEC 0W-30 European Formula is engineered to meet the Mercedes Benz 229.5 specification*. The 0W-30 viscosity grade is ideal for winter conditions where low temperature pumpability is required. A unique, low-temperature formulation provides exceptional pumpability in cold weather and allows for unaided engine starts down to -40ºF. Exceeds all car and light truck manufacturer’s warranty requirements for the protection of gasoline, diesel and turbocharged engines where API SL, SJ, SH, CF or CD is recommended. Exceeds European ACEA: A3, B3, B4; VW 502 00, 505 00; MB 229.1, 229.3, 229.5; BMW LL-01; GM-LLA-025, GM-LL-B-025 and the engine protection requirements of ILSAC GF-3 for API Certified Gasoline Engine Oils.

Nope I'm far from it, this is why I only treat the car to German Castrol when Autozone has a big sale, which I still have a Free K&N filter that I need to use.

Alright so lets look at the specs in the FSM. Here are the refill capacities.

Drain and Refil, With Oil filter change - 3.2 (3-3/8 US QT)
Dry Engine - 3.6 (3-7/8 US QT)

Now you can buy oil in quarts or gallons. Either way you have to buy 4 quarts. Thus you have some extra left when you do a simple oil change anyway. Why not use it to prolong the life of the engine?

It works very simply, add new oil, it kinda mixes but pushes the old oil out. If you buy 1 gallon bottle, you have a whole quart to spare, why not flush the engine out with it? Even on my sludgy engine, my oil would stay clean up to 300 miles, and not get dark until 1k miles. Before this method it would be pitch black after just idling the engine.

Dont take my post the wrong way, I was merely poking at you. The color of your oil has nothing to do with the cleanliness of it. The color of the oil changes from the combustion process, and more often than not from the additives added to motor oil burning off.

Here's a good read:
Myth #1

I might have to try Rotella 5w-40.

they both meet the same specs, but the oils may be different. TBN analysis shows that the german stuff is more stout, though I can't be for sure on that one. I'd stick to the one that is made in Germany. That way I know what I'm getting.